Pamukkale and Hierapolis, Turkey

Lavendar, rosemary and occasionally subtle rose perfumes waft from the gardens that link the Pamukkale travertines and the ancient ruins of Hierapolis. It’s another stunning day in Turkey and my fears that this amazing place would be spoilt by masses of people or worse, no water at all, have not materialised.

The attraction of Pamukkale is the spectacular platforms, travertines that have been formed from the mineral springs that gush, full of calcium and magnesium, depositing layers over the centuries. They are initially soft and gooey underfoot in the platforms, eventually solidifying into the calcite we all walk on barefoot to protect the site.

Patterns are formed, some just gentle marks, others in sharp ridges that test tender feet. Large pools in platforms extend the length of the site and short walks in either direction away from the main area reveal other pools worth a look. Overflows create stalactyte like formations,

We enter early by the centre gate just a short walk from our hotel thus avoiding the tour groups who enter at higher gates and so are massing at the pools well after we have moved on.

At the top, it’s shoes back on and we move around the boardwalks and gardens that seem only to be inhabited by people not on a schedule – a benefit of allowing a full day to explore the site. Unlike Ephesus, there is plenty of shade to be found, with picnic tables in many places under trees or vine covered small pergolas. It’s over 30degC out in the sun but a cool breeze when you take a break is so pleasant.

Above the travertines are the ruins of Hierapolis, a Roman spa town. This is definitely worth the price of admission, all part of the Pamukkale ticket, a modest A$8 approx and stay as long as you like.

We head to the north gate. Just outside the gates, as in many ancient towns, are the remains of the baths. It was customary to clean up prior to entering the city, an early health management strategy for the citizens. Possibly even more important here as this is a town where the sick came for the cure. The size of the necropolis is testament to the fact that the waters did not always cure.

Through the grand gates and we walk along the generously sized road about 14 metres across. Two metres of calcite was apparently jack hammered away to reveal the original road. Excavations continue in various parts of the site.

Walking along this ancient road into the city, once lined with houses and shops, and having it almost to ourselves is just a bit awesome.

Far and away the most spectacular thing to see in Hierapolis, in my opinion, is the Theatre, about 1800 years old. Not as big as the theatre at Ephesus, but somehow more spectacular because of its completeness. Definitely worth coming here for this alone.

A museum is now housed in what were the town baths, a monumental building. An extra 5Turkish Lira (A$1) to go in but interesting and rather nicely done.

In all we probably spent 5 or 6 hours on the entire site just cruising at a relaxed pace. The benefit of using the entry from Pamukkale town itself is we not only go up through the calcite deposits but get to experience it all over again on the way home. By this time, many people are gathered around the top pools, some in fairly skimpy bathing gear risking the suns rays reflecting off all that water and whiteness of the calcite. It soon thins out again as we progress down.

Top tip, go early and allow plenty of time to explore the entire site, taking a snack and plenty of water to avoid the massive markups on site.

Yet another excellent breakfast at Bellamaritimo. Everywhere in Turkey we have enjoyed breakfasts of the freshest tomato, cucumber, capsicum, black olives, green olives, egg usually in omelet form, turkish sausage, bread galore, pastry or similar sometimes crepes, often yoghurt and this place is the creamiest yet, fresh fruit, sometimes dried apricots and figs as well, coffee, tea – a veritable smorgasbord that can satisfy even a coeliac like me.