lornaontheloose

Cuba – Havana

14/01/2017 by lornaontheloose, posted in Caribbean, Central America, Cuba, Havana, Travel

The breeze off the Atlantic Ocean is brisk but pleasant in the warm night air as we take our first evening stroll along the Malecon. We are in Havana.

A warm introduction to our home for 6 nights. Si, we would like a Cuba Libre. How pleasant sittting out on the 2nd floor balcony with our Casa host, Maura, sipping drinks and enjoying a lively conversation in broken Spanish and not bad English from her. We talk about everything from sharks to life in Cuba.

After barely any food all day, the Cuba Libre starts to make my head swim so we head out for a meal about 9pm.

Wow! Cuba has changed in the 10 years since I was last here. The restaurant Maura has suggested is totally trendy. Habana 61 sits on a little cobbled street a few minutes walk away in our neighbourhood of Old Havana or Habana Vieja. The decor, the staff, the food – none of it would look out of place in the latest Sydney venue. The only difference – it is at a fraction of the price.

Habana 61 feels a bit special seeing as we live right by Habana in Mackay.

In the main tourist area, home to the larger hotels, prices could be twice the price and more of the restaurants close to our lovely Casa. Local food would be vastly less expensive again but we are enjoying this really top quality food for a few days.

Walking the streets of old Havana is an architectural pleasure. No work has been done on many buildings since the revolution. However a surprising amount has been done. Change is under way in Havana. Buildings have been cleaned and restored, others demolished to make way for new hotels, occasionally with what was once a fabulous facade retained. Clearly it will look magnificent if restored to its original glory. Some of the newly cleaned buildings have not had their decorative features restored. The colours and other features that can still be vaguely observed in the old, crumbling untouched buildings are missing, rendering a more stark structure that has lost that fabulous grandeur of once what was.

This place would have looked mind blowingly amazing in the 1950’s and prior decades.

Los Nardos opposite the Capitolio provides a memorable lunch experience. We share an enormous plate of meats grilled Cuban style with rice, black beans and a plate of salad vegetables in a very atmospheric restaurant. Two fabulous operatic tenor voices resonate throughout the high ceilinged room adding to the cultural experience and thoroughly enchanting the entire restaurant.

A bride is led across the cobbled Plaza to the Cathedral. Men who drive fabulous old American cars offer us a taxi service. At the other end of the scale, we could opt for a horse and cart, or a ride in a small buggy pulled along by a bicycle, a bicitaxi. Women dressed in traditional style brandishing giant cigars tempt the tourist cameras, musicians play lively Latin music – all in search of the tourist dollar on the promise of an exotic photo to take home.

We prefer to walk and observe. The Hemingway bar is teeny, tiny, and packed with maybe only a dozen people trying to drink a presumably outrageously expensive cocktail, musicians crammed into one corner. We squeeze in and then move back out again into the narrow cobbled street.

Casa Victor Hugo is a beautiful old building housing a photographic exhibition of the Paris Dance company.

Our little corner of old Havana seems to have many restaurants and bars. An evening stroll to choose where to eat on a balmy evening is a people watching opportunity. A brief sprinkle of tropical rain is not enough to drive the diners away from their tables set out on the cobble stones.

We meet a Welsh guy who like us, has spent quite a bit of his day at the bank. Our experience, unlike his, was quite straight forward, just time consuming. His card was cancelled and with minimal cash, he was very lucky to be able to talk to his bank, at a cost of over £100, and get it restored.

Step one in our bank saga, wait for the ticket issuing operative to return from a break to her desk just inside the door. Tell me what you want, she asks in Spanish to ensure we get the correct ticket.

Ticket in hand, we join the waiting crowd.

Two people are not allowed to attend the counter at the same time. Kerri’s turn to change money so it becomes a Spanish language test as I am forced to wait 3 paces back. The teller has to relent at one point and allows me to briefly approach, then return to my spot.

One of the most fascinating parts of Havana street life is watching the giant American cars that ply the streets. Many are beautifully chromed up and lovingly cared for. Others look dull and dinged, still waiting on their owners to presumably be able to afford to render a lot more attention. Packard, Chrysler, Ford, Chevrolet, Dodge … and many more, all looking like they have rolled off a Hollywood film set.

Havana Malecon is a must.

Waves crash against the retaining wall of the Malecon, splashing on to passers by. It’s a fishing spot, a place for lovers and anyone who wants to stroll.

Enormous cruise ships slip almost noiselessly along the picturesque channel to the harbour, literally tying up right on the street. Looks like you could just jump into the facing building.

The channel into Havana Harbour is so beautiful

Equally beautiful by night, the sound of live music draws us to an outdoor restaurant on the Malecon where members of the band are happy to salsa with willing patrons.

The Cuban Art Museum stood out like a glistening jewel in its surrounds 10 years ago. Now it looks a little more jaded and blends in with the surrounds. The art work inside is still just as interesting though.

We meet some Australians who tell us about restaurant Van Van. Tapas and a A$2.70 Mojito that could put you on your ear in a venue obviously dedicated to music. We are holding out for a Christmas Eve feast at our Casa but will return one night for the full experience.

Dinner with the family on Christmas Eve is a delight. Food is abundant and delicious. Alcohol is even more abundant. Mojitos, red wine, beer, pineapple liqueur, coconut liqueur, several types of Cuban rum or Ron as it is here. After all that, a little salsa is inevitable.

Sunday is when the rhumba drums come out in the African art street. The tiny street is worth a visit any day of the week just to absorb the amazing art. The Sunday action starts around noon, so it’s good to get there a little earlier to get a look around as the crowds build phenomenally. Drinks are not outrageously priced which makes it easy to sit and people watch.

We detour on the walk back to take in Chinatown. Precious few Chinese around, but there are some restaurants and evidence of what was before socialism scared the enterprising Chinese out of the country.

After WiFi on tap in South America, the system here is largely unchanged over the past 10 years except you can use your own phone instead of a terminal. It’s a bitter shock for tourists who arrive expecting just to be able to do their research and book ahead as they go along. The internet system involves firstly buying a card, available only in a very limited number of places. The card has a login and a password valid for a set period of time. Slow is the key word and don’t count on being able to do anything complex, especially out of Havana where things seemed to me to be a little more difficult.

One of our last excursions is to the Museo de la Revolution. It is a little chaotic and being able to read some Spanish is a big help. My knowledge of the Bay of Pigs incident is not comprehensive, but interesting to read from the Cuban perspective.

Absolutely classic images as you exit to the tanks, other militaria including remains of a US spy plane, is the life size cutout cartoon figures of Battista and three Republican presidents, Reagan plus Bush senior and junior. The adjacent sign is slightly different for each man, but about as blatantly uncomplimentary as you can get. I wonder if mostly Democrats would ever want to visit Cuba anyway. Can someone please let me know what they do for the next US president in due course?

Six days in Havana is definitely a relaxing amount of time and we have 2 more at the end. We feel lucky, many people only have a week or maybe two for their entire trip.

Adios Ecuador For Now

25/12/2016 by lornaontheloose, posted in Ecuador, Jazz, Pan American highway, South America, Travel

20161210_052203 — Piano accordion, always special and this guy was good. Quito

An enormous bed of fluffy, whipped but uncooked meringue appears to lie below us as we fly from Guayaquil to Quito. Quito is pushing close to 3,000 metres so I wonder how we will go coming in to land in the mountains in this cloud cover.

No problem. As if by magic, the clouds break and we fly between mountains that look so green after the grim drought conditions further south. Quito seems to go on forever, with buildings up and down and along the mountain slopes and we come in to land uneventfully.

A small door on the narrow cobbled Quito street opens into a spacious old building of wooden floors, beautiful corridors and great facilities. Our room is large with windows that open onto a lovely internal courtyard garden. There are sitting areas, a huge breakfast area, a games room and a patio looking up to the hills and night lights.

Just around the corner is La Ronda, a pedestrian street of artesan shops, restaurants, music and popular in the evenings.

Just a few blocks the other way is the Grand Plaza. Alive with people trying to make a living, families out and about – it feels like the kind of place you would run into everyone you know if you just waited long enough.

The architecture keeps us looking up and around. The large internal courtyards are endlessly delightful.

20161210_052329 — Delicious cherries. Quito

I spot a coffee shop tucked away and can tell at 50 metres it will have great coffee. Right there in central Quito we get a flat white with all the flourishes we are used to. It can be a very long walk to find an acceptable coffee. We often opt to go without. Coffee snobs.

Visiting the equator is something you kind of feel obliged to do when on the spot. Mitad del Mundo was probably my least enjoyable excursion so far. There were some lovely parts to the day like the imploded crater in particular, and the museum, but in general the touristified setup was depressing. Just my opinion and maybe the altitude was making me a little grumpy that day.

Of course nothing stays the same, but my memory of the 1974 visit is the one I will try to keep uppermost in my mind.

The touristy day out confirms for me that we will skip Banos and head straight to the jungle. What a brilliant move that turned out to be. Check it out on Amazon Adventure Ecuador.

So here we are in Cuenca after the most extraordinary few days in he jungle and having been told from several quarters this is a difficult option to try to get to Cuenca from Tena. Getting around Ecuador is relatively easy, but it seems our decision to skip Banos makes the next stage not quite so straight forward.

20161217_091933 — Pork is popular in this small highway town.. Shop after shop has an entire huge pig carcass hanging out front. This one is almost stripped down to just skin flaps

In the event, we find the trip not so bad at all, apart from the 5 hour leg to Riobamba without a comfort stop.. The fact that we have such gorgeous hotels in Riobamba and then Cuenca definitely makes it all worthwhile.

I doze off as the bus perpetually winds and climbs and wake just in time to see the Sky Door and glimpse through a break in the mountains a fabulous outlook framed against a perfect blue sky. Hydroelectric schemes then a couple of tunnels through mountains and we hit Banos.

Just out of town, the police flag us down and two people are taken off the bus. The back seat area where they had been sitting is very thoroughly searched. We move on, left to guess what that was about.

Travelling on South American buses is nothing like a long distance bus trip in Asia or most other places for that matter. We have a terminal to terminal ticket with an allocated seat, but the locals get on and off all along the way. Never ceases to fascinate me how people get on and then barely a few metres later, we stop again for more people. Why do they not stand together my organised brain can’t help but ask. The conductors are older and more professional these days but they still repetitively yell out our destination as we pass through hamlets and villages. Just in case passers by want to go there.

20161217_091732 — Love the Sunday best straw hat perched atop the more practical everyday felt hat. On the Buses.

Then there are the vendors who hop on the bus selling everything from fresh banana cake to mandarins, movie dvds, potato chips and drinks. Every so often, someone will get on with a long and compelling story to tell about his products. Always seems to be a man, takes several minutes to tell the story at the front of the bus then moves along the corridor pressing 4 different types of sweets on everyone – just to have a look. Over the journey I see people obediently taking the little bundle on more than one occasion only to hand it back as the bus reaches the end of the town and the vendor has to get off.

A never ending stream of fascinating people get on and off the bus. Sometimes standing room only.

Riobamba still has some cobbled streets in the centre of town but nothing else triggers my memory banks. Who could fail to be impressed when we are offered a real coffee on entering Casa 1881. Massive room, enormous bathroom, great breakfast and they have Netflix. Nice.

Seems to be only one company running a bus service from Riobamba to Cuenca, endless others going to Quito and Guayaquil. Momentarily, I worry the plan is going awry but spot the one and only company at the very last window at the terminal.

The Pan-American Highway stretches about 48,000 kms and we get to ride a stretch through the Andes. We are on one mountain slope that merges into another and another, just across the way is another string of mountains. Any time the valley between widens out, there are farms and dwellings. When it is even wider, there are townships, some quite big. Some valleys are lush with many small crops and a few sheep, cows, pigs, horses and donkeys. Other valleys are drier and the vegetation stubby.

Some towns have huge statues gracing their main street, usually three well spaced out. The standard format seems to be an indigenous person followed by a missionary and finally what I guess is a colonial administrator.

We drive through clouds and above clouds, with never a straight stretch of road.

20161217_092311 — Mums hover protectively around the tots in the Cuenca procession

Cuenca we just loved and spent all our time there wandering around the central area visiting museums and enjoying the architecture.

Our final night dinner at La Vina in Cuenca was so good. A recommendation from Alberto at Casa Ordonez, our very beautiful old hotel. I’d punt it is the best Italian food within a 10 hour plane ride. Plus it is the home of the Ecuador jazz society. A seat upstairs gives you front row seats to the live music which matches the food in excellence.

The final drive to Guayaquil is beautiful passing through the Cajas national park. Waterfalls, tumbling streams and lakes that have formed in any depression in the mountains. Finally we are back on the coastal plain and it feels strange to be driving on a flat, straight road after what has felt like weeks driving through the mountains. Tree ferns and palms reappear followed by broad acre farming – bananas, rice, cacao and sugar cane.

Guayaquil is super hot, so jumpers come off, hats and sandals come on.

Ecuador has been just an awesome destination. Such diversity in a relatively small area and so accessible. Apparently tourism is down, I am guessing the Zika virus media frenzy we were exposed to may be a contributor.

If Ecuador is on your radar, you won’t be disappointed. Check out my other Ecuador posits

Galapagos- Isabela and San Cristobal

Galapagos – A Tropical Desert

Tango and Iguanas – Guayaquil

Amazon Adventure Ecuador

18/12/2016 by lornaontheloose, posted in Amazon, Ecuador, South America, Tena, Travel

The Napo River rises in the Andes in north eastern Ecuador and makes its way to feed into the Amazon River. Having travelled halfway up the Amazon from the mouth at Belem to Manaus on a river boat in 1974 followed up by a second week heading south on the Rio Madeira on a smaller river boat to end up at Guajara Mirim on the Brazil and far northern Bolivian borders, I am keen to explore some of the western reaches of Amazonia.

A Napo River adventure ticks all the boxes.

We tee up an excursion and head out of Quito on an extremely winding but very good road to Tena.

Our destination is Casa Blanca for 2 nights plus a 2 day jungle excursion with Gary. There are just the two of us so we pay a premium for the trip, but it does mean we get a totally private tour. Excellent decision.

Casa Blanca is about a 15 minute walk down the old airport strip to town but the hostel is very well set up thanks to US co-owner, Michelle.

The kitchen is large with everything you could need from a microwave to a rice cooker,even a recipe book and guide to exotic fruits plus a full laundry for the use of guests. Hammock in the room is a nice touch. Sweetest of all, fresh potable water throughout every tap in the place.

We set out at 9am, collect spare torch batteries and head off. First stop Capuchin monkeys but it has been raining so today we only see a mum and her bub. Mum steals a red onion from the fabulously stocked fruit and vegie shop and proceeds to peel it and rub all over herself. Tears literally spurt from her eyes but she persists with the anti vermin treatment.

Down to the Napo river and we head off in our motorised canoe. The river is quite low so we zig and zag, negotiating rapids from time to time. Gary checks the water level with a large pole.

Delightful to be back on a river and the jungle views are often very close with occasional habitations and resulting human activity. Still, we feel we almost have it to ourselves.

Sacha Sisa Amazon Lodge is perfect with rough timber walls, perfectly fine beds and our own bathroom. Mind, the termites are hard at work in the bathroom – an occupational hazard of timber structures in the jungle. There is a large open eating area plus another bar come river and jungle observation area, not to mention the hammocks to lounge in. We relax after walking up the 160 steps past little waterfalls and dense growth. We will do these steps a couple of times before our stay is out.

The Oropendola birds keep us entertained. So fast as they flit and call to each other in the trees tantalizingly close to our room, the yellow feathers striking against the black. Their enormous pendulous nests hang high up in the trees and they go in and out like our Sunbird only on a gigantic scale.

20161217_223723 — Enormous nests hang high in the trees

20161214_131434 — Hard to get a shot of these beautiful birds they are so fast

Lunch, which is more than I can eat, over and we head off on the first jungle walk for a couple of hours. Rubber gumboots plus a substantial hiking stick are the order of the day. There is a lot of scrambling up and down some of it relatively steep and we are grateful the wet season has not started.

20161214_212044 — Leaf cutter ants hard at work

Gary imparts so much information about medicinal plants as a starter. We are familiar with some of the first herbs we encounter, cilantro or coriander, basil just growing wild, gingers. Heliconiums are everywhere, but so many more plants, herbs and trees that are new to us.

The white cacao is different to the dark chocolate producing cacao. We examine the contents of the huge pod fresh and get to eat the beans roasted up for dinner. Delicious.

Once it gets dark we head off on the night tour, torch in one hand, walking pole in the other, to again clamber up and down along a jungle track. With total faith in Gary and his machete we just go with the flow and enjoy. His eagle eyes spot tiny creatures like tarantula and poison dart frogs.

The cry of an owl on the full moon night releases another legend from Gary with references to Romeo and Juliet. We sleep to jungle noises including the owl.

An early morning start before breakfast. This is going to be a big day. We cross the river and head off down a track to try for some bird spotting. Seeing and hearing the woodpecker in action is a novelty for us. So called prehistoric birds cluster in trees across from a small hide. Called Hoatzin, they have wing claws which leads to the prehistoric reference.

Back for breakfast and we leave the lodge. More new sights as we head towards one of the highlights of the trip. There is the curare vine and a plant reputed to be good for diabetes, but the blood tree is amazing. A small cut in the trunk and it exudes a sap looking for all the world like dark venous blood. We hear the legend of this tree and then Gary rubs the sap onto our arms. Amazingly as he rubs it become a white paste which when dry acts as a protection over a wound, like a latex cover or a fine bandaid. So many more stories from Gary that he learned growing up from his Grandfather, an expert in jungle medicine.

We embarrass ourselves trying to harvest yucca by pulling too fast and leaving half he tuber in the ground and then replant two for the ones we dug up.

As we walk through the jungle, a man and woman approach. He is shirtless wearing camouflage pants, boots and wields a large machete. The outline of a jaguar is tattooed on his upper arm. He greets us all with a handshake and a Buenos Dias. Later we see them walking along the river, he with an enormous pump hoisted on his shoulders. They disappear down river to go about their business.

20161217_223613 — Jaguar tattooo man puts a shirt half on and heads off

In a small clearing, we head towards an open structure to experience something quite extraordinary. Cacao beans are roasted over an open fire. A heavy old mincer is attached to the end of a stool and with a lot of muscle power, the beans are fed through the mincer to create a pure bitter chocolate paste. Next stage, raw sugar and water is added to the paste, it goes back over the fire and boiled down to make chocolate. The best part is that we then get to taste the end product via a strawberry and banana fondue. Divine is an understatement, can hardly bear to stop eating it!

Further down river is the butterfly farm, only 112 steps up to this. Again, a most amazing experience as we walk around an environment with about 30 different types of butterflies fluttering all around and on us.

20161217_235250 — Can’t stop taking butterfly photos

20161214_132534 — Such a beautiful place

Monkey Island provides excellent views of Wooly monkeys.

Across the river is the picnic lunch spot and a feast is prepared for us on the river bank.

Amazoonica is our final stop for the day. Pretty much run by volunteers, our guide is Paul from Berlin who is doing a 3 or 4 month stint. All the animals here have been rescued or confiscated and are not fit to be re-released back into the wild. Tamarind monkeys, ocelots, caiman, macaws, toucans, Amazon parrots and so many more are housed in an extensive natural environment.

20161214_133404 — Blue and yellow Macaw lost his mate so an unusual pairing with Amazon parrot

Back on the canoe for the final leg of this wonderful river journey and jungle excursion.

20161214_133641 — School is out, time to go fishing

We catch up with the Capuchin monkeys who are out and about now and feed them grapes.

20161214_211520 — Capuchin loving the grapes

There is something quite special for me about river travelling. Napo River is added to the list of river travels I have made over the years and is right up there for sheer enjoyment. The breadth and depth of our experiences in the time we spent with Gary over those two days would be hard to match anywhere.

Don’t miss Ecuador and don’t miss the jungle.

Galapagos- Isabela and San Cristobal

08/12/2016 by lornaontheloose, posted in Ecuador, Galapagos, South America, Travel

Think Bali from the 70’s or 80’s. Think north Queensland seaside towns from the 50’s or 60’s and you start to get a feel for Isabela.

The buildings are quite different and there are plenty of eating venues, but there’s something pretty nice about strolling down a sandy road in the shorts and t shirt you’ve been wearing for days greeting fellow passers by with a friendly Hola.

The powerful motors of the launch from Santa Cruz to Isabela push us through the largely calm waters. I get an optical illusion from my side on view sitting toward the back of the small boat that the horizon is greatly diminished in distance. As the swell builds a little we almost appear to be below the water line. There are about 18 of us and no one can speak above the engine throb. In spite of that it is a relatively meditative experience and in less than 2 hours we arrive at Puerto Villamil, Isabela.

To enter the Galapagos there is a tax to pay on the mainland departure point and another on arrival. Don’t lose the bits of paper. With every move into and between islands, luggage is checked to ensure we are not transporting any foreign material. Bags are secured with a plastic zip tie; then there will probably be a customs dog on arrival as well. Allow plenty of time for this procedure.

La Jungla hostal is right at the end of the main road, so handy for the flamingo experience. The first floor room looks straight out onto the beach and we sleep to the sound of surf.

Flamingos had to be first cab off the rank for me. A series of water holes, obviously the perfect environment, delivered the flamingos in spades. We counted 27 and went camera crazy.

Amazing birds and so totally picturesque.

You have no idea how loud the munching can be from scores of baby tortoises feasting on tuberous leafy material at the tortoise breeding centre. Then it is a bit like the Dodgem cars in slow motion as the giant adults cross paths and their carapaces crash resoundingly against each other. Already we realise we should have been here for a couple more days. We opt for the Tintoreras trip.

Just a short cruise out from the port but before we even leave, there are rays, Golden Ray, Spotted Eagle Rays and they are everywhere.

It’s a little early for penguins apparently, but we are lucky and see some. Amazing so close to the equator. They are small, just a bit bigger than the fairy penguins we see in Australia.

Blue footed boobies is definitely a winning sight.

A hike across the lava past yet more marine iguana to the channel where the white tipped reef sharks come to rest. The white tips match the white tipped lava (from bird droppings) and that is how Tintoreras got its name.

We get good views of many sharks cruising up and down in the narrow channel.

The snorkelling highlight is definitely the massive marine turtle feeding on sea grasses right below. Brilliant.

The excursion to the Wall of Tears can take 4 to 5 hours on foot depending on how long you linger at the various beaches or scenic spots along the way. We still decide to do it that way rather than bicycle. Amazingly some people seem to be doing it without water, or hats. It is hot, I have sunburn blisters down one shin when I get back. We get the tip to be at the beach spots at low tide to wander in the rockpools. A totally fearless amazing looking bird suddenly appeared beside us in the mangroves. A Night Heron. Another lucky sighting I think as they hide during the day, out and about at night. Extraordinary.

A little burst of merengue is called for as we cross the Merengue bridge. None of that larking about on the return journey, just a stop to enjoy the sea breeze.

A giant land tortoise appears as if on cue as we reach the Camino de Las Tortugas. Nice to see them in the wild.

20161204_094433 — Land tortoise on Camino de Las Tortugas

The Wall of Tears is sobering when we finally reach it. Appears totally purposeless except as a cruel punishment.

We wake to blustery wind, rain and lots of cloud. Great day for flying! Amazingly though it changes within a couple of hours to one of our most stunning days yet. Hopefully the flight to San Cristobal on our little Emetebe plane will be magical and worth the big bucks it cost.

It truly is a day of rest on Isabela on Sunday. Only the tour companies and a few cafes open. We have had nice breakfasts at La Jungla, egg, juice, coffee and in my case humita in lieu of toast. Yum. Thanks to Sandra for the gluten free option.

We had 3 tips on arrival for restaurants, Cesar, Isabela Grill and Faro. All good and they went up the scale in that order. Last night was local pork with tasty stir fried veggies, chips with the skin still on the spud and the most delicious fresh passionfruit juice. How many passionfruit must that take and where are the seeds? Have had lots of tuna or albacore, chicken, pork, salads and nice light rice along the way. Also enjoying the quinoa meals.

A 10 seater Emetebe plane sits on the tarmac when we arrive to an absolutely deserted airport. Eventually the Customs baggage check man arrives and we move from one deserted giant room to a smaller deserted waiting room.

20161205_123125 — Another Emetebe flight provides us with photos ops from every conceivable angle en route

All luggage is weighed when the Emetebe chica arrives and in spite of our incredibly thrifty packing with backpacks around the allowed 11kgs, our hand luggage spins us up to US$35 excess.

Very cruisy flight though, worth the cost, saving a night and 4 or 5 more hours in a two island launch transfer. The pilots were very laid back, giving us a reassuring thumbs up at the end of the runway before takeoff.

The day is sparkling and we get great views. A second Emetebe plane appears beside us to give their passengers and us great photo opportunities from every possible angle. Even the copilot takes a snap. He then takes a short nap and wakes to take a selfie of himself and the pilot.

Do try to sit behind the pilot or in the back row if you want photos. Get in early and ask the Emetebe person who weighs the bags.

With such a limited time on San Cristobal, we dump our gear at Casa de Laura and head on out to organise our activity for the next day. Two key goals, Kicker Rock and Punta Pitt. We choose the all day 360 trip that does both these and more on a circumnavigation of the island. US$140 and if you smile, they cut it back to US$130. It includes snorkelling gear, wet suits (no thanks), snacks of bananas, pan au chocolat, fruit, drinks and a very substantial lunch of marinara rice plus salad.

Timing is perfect for a sunset experience on Playa Mann. Sea Lions are there in abundance as are people, but it is pleasant and not overcrowded. It reminds me of Mindil Beach in Darwin where the beach sunsets are the thing. Swimmers enjoy the water, scattering as a sea lion comes close. San Cristobal is to sea lions what Isabela is to marine iguana – they are inescapable.

We observe an amazing sea lion interaction. A pup is suckling on the sand. A very large male appears, nuzzles the mum and off she goes with him to frolic in the shallows. Pup is distraught crying up and down the beach checking out everything in sight, including my leg looking for mum. Not too long, she returns and all is well again.

The sunset is fabulous.

Sunset viewing means we have missed the cocktail happy hour experience. Hard to miss really as it goes from 10am to 6pm! We hustle the next day to make it by 5.30 after the 360 tour and enjoy our best trip mojitos yet. Super strong.

A 7.30 start for our day out and 9 of us plus the guide and the captain head out on the launch. As we approach Kicker Rock a big pod of possibly Bottle Nosed Dolphins give us a fabulous acrobatic display.

20161206_112932 — Lucky to see dolphin acrobatics

Kicker Rock is massive when you get up close.

20161206_113129 — Kicker Rock is impressive

We don the snorkelling gear and jump in. The very first thing I see is two Hammerhead sharks. That’s a big Yow! for an Australian but I manage to keep breathing and not inhale water. We knew this was on the cards, but quite another thing to be floating right above them! We see a couple more Hammerheads but so many more of the Galapagos sharks. Looked like 100 or more to me but the guide says 40. Maybe just my eyes popping out of my head. Hundreds of fish though. We snorkelled for maybe an hour.

Cruise around Punta Pitt to observe the birds. I get my wish and see Red Footed Booby plus a fledgling in the nest. More Blue Footed and Nazca Booby as well.

20161206_090027 — Squint hard, we do see Red Footed Booby at Punta Pitt on the north of San Cristobal

The beach stops are fabulous. There is no coral here but some of those beaches rival our finest on the Great Barrier Reef and we have them to ourselves.

Two more snorkels and we head back with another dolphin exhibition on the way back to port. This time I think it was the Common Dolphin.

Time on our last day to visit the interpretation centre. Informative with an excellent historical perspective – definitely well worth visiting.

So wraps up a magical 10 days in the Galapagos. If I was starting again knowing what I know now, I would definitely allow more tIme. No regrets…

Three weeks into the thirteen that we have for this trip. Now for some more mainland Ecuador for a couple of weeks.

20161207_104111 — Tried for 10 days to get a nice shot of this quick little sweetie, Yellow Warbler, and here she is right beside our lunch table at the very last moment too engrossed in feasting to worry.

Galapagos – A Tropical Desert

01/12/201601/12/2016 by lornaontheloose, posted in Ecuador, Galapagos, South America, Travel

Not even halfway into our ten days in the Galapagos and we are totally charmed. A massive day trip to Bartolome and visiting the local school are big highlights so far.

The desert is a real surprise. Any Galapagos photos are always of idyllic scenery and amazing creatures. I am taken aback at my first view of the terrain. So barren. Cacti are scattered around, along with tufts of grey grasses typical of a desert environment plus trees that appear to have barely any foliage. From a distance they look a bit like African thorn trees or a hardy acacia from central Australia with pendulous narrow “leaves” and narrow green trunks.

First view of the landscape is a surprise

I constantly remind myself that everything I see is unique to this place as my brain tries to reference to the known.

The wind buffets as we walk from the aircraft, another surprise because the wind turbines were still. No wonder we bucked into the landing.

A quick negotiation with waiting taxi (ute) drivers and we arrange for our first diversion to break up the 40 minute drive across the island of Santa Cruz to Puerto Ayora. That was an excellent tip from a new friend Jill, an Australian teacher here.

The scenery changes as we drive with more vegetation appearing. The Twins is first. These are a strange feature being two adjacent sunken craters, not volcanoes, large and dry, with steep sides and a rough gravel track to walk partway round.

On to the tortoise ranch. Again we just wander around and observe the tortoises in their expansive scrubby environment. They love to wallow and shallow mud pools are scattered around with many large tortoise shells protruding bizarrely above the water line. As they lumber into the water and allow themselves to sink, air bubbles are released, glugging their way out of the enormous cavity.

The final stop is an amazing lava tunnel at Bellavista in the Highlands of Santa Cruz. We check that our torches work and head off through a lovely garden until we reach some precarious stone steps down into the tunnel.

Now this is impressive.

The tubes were formed when surface lava cooled and solidified while the underground hot lava continued to run. This tunnel extends for about 2kms. At first there are a couple of lights, but then it becomes as dark as pitch. It starts to get pretty slippery and the odd evidence of rockfall is a little disconcerting. We push on – 2 kms in a dark tunnel does not call for daydreaming.

That evening we catch up with Jill and get invited on the spot to a vegetarian Thanksgiving. This involves taking a water taxi across the bay, a hike down a boardwalk then along the sand to a fairly exclusive part of town. About a dozen of her generous colleagues and friends share a candle light feast under the magnificent starry sky. A fantastic introduction to Galapagos.

The first highlight of Day 2 is a breakfast that does not include eggs. Bliss is a large super fresh fruit salad, delicious home made yoghurt and honey from sugar cane, very dark and not too sweet.

20161130_230244 — Trees for a desert environment

The Charles Darwin Research Station is an impressive facility, providing an insight into the local wildlife and conservation strategies. It extends over quite a large area of natural bushland and we get a close up look at land iguanas.

It’s a very hot afternoon but we head off to Turtle Bay, about 2.5 kms along a path, winding up and down through a cactus forest. The cacti have large solid and colourful trunks with the more usual cacti lobes suspended up high. Some are in flower, a pretty yellow.

A massive white sand beach finally comes into view. Currents are strong but surfers are out. We park next to some vegetation with the only semblance of shade and discover our fellow parkers are a trio of large marine iguanas. These guys are dark compared to their more orange land cousins.

Observing the marine iguana swimming is a big tick off the list.

Back just in time to grab a bottle of Chilean Shiraz. Jill has kindly invited us for roast chicken at the home of another Australian, Ros, a long time resident who built an amazing house and created a great environment.

An early night though as we have to be up at 5 am to head off to Bartolome. This island is a 2 hour trip away on the lovely Adriana, a catamaran. Just 16 of us with Frank, the guide, the captain and a cook who prepares a delicious breakfast and later a yummy tuna steak lunch.

Halfway we idle along the side of a giant rock called Daphne Major. Great excitement as about 10 giant manta ray appear and very actively feed right beside us. Frank is excited so I think it is pretty special. Oh and plenty of birds. Nazca Booby, Blue footed booby, booby with chick and many more. We love the frigate birds that seem to enjoy searching in the wake of the boat. Almost seems as if they will fly right into us.

Bartolome has picture postcard vistas. Part of Master and Commander was filmed here.. We climb the volcano, thankfully with rest breaks in the heat. A short hike across the lava field and we hit the sandy beach.

Snorkeling time. The water is a little chill for me but eventually I’m in. There were colourful fish around the rocks but highlight number one was a turtle swimming right below. Highlight number two was a very playful sea lion who swam within touching distance. We watched him for ages frolicking with the snorkelers and demonstrating amazing aquatic skills of speed and dexterity as he somehow avoided smashing into the rocks he seemed to be heading right for at torpedo speed.

20161129_103059 — Frolicking with the snorkellers

As we head for home a pod of dolphin play chicken in our bow wave. Their speed and confidence is awesome.

Dolphin playing as Adriana heads for home. Wow.

We head off next morning to Jill’s school in the Highlands in a open casual bush setting. Two girls are allocated to each of us for a school tour. This is all English practice for them. We do a Q and A with older less fluent students. The final class is younger, very fluent, precocious and very intelligent.

The class is super excited by our dictionary presentation and there’s Jill

Our last full day on Santa Cruz and we visit Las Grietas. A water taxi takes us in daylight this time to the other side of the bay. Our first night destination was over here. Up the garden track, along the board walk, cross the sandy beach, past the salt marshes where salt is harvested, along a track of volcanic cinders up and down stairs and finally we have arrived.

The bartender strums as we take a break on the walk back. He has his work life balance sorted

One last dinner with Jill. Food is great and the mojitos are excellent. We take the ferry to Isabela tomorrow. So only one more Galapagos Deli breakfast. The family make the delicious fresh rolls, that I can only observe, right there on the spot.

20161201_064321 — .Stage 1 of the bread roll making process

20161201_064359 — And here is the magnificent oven

Tango and Iguanas – Guayaquil

27/11/2016 by lornaontheloose, posted in Ecuador, Guayaquil, South America, Travel

Ok team, let’s lay it on for the tourists.

Beds are Burning suddenly blares from the speaker system as our taxi clatters down a cobblestone throughway en route to Lima airport. Bizarre coincidence we think! The driver turns it up as we cruise along the ocean drive.

Hey next track is more Aussie music. Land Down Under, The Voice… Turns out the driver is streaming it all just for us. How cool is that? Loving grooving for an hour in Lima traffic to, mostly, Oz rock. We get every other genre you can think of. Graeme Connors is in there to novelty songs and deep country. Plus, the driver thinks the anthem is pretty, and plays it a second time till we beg for more rock! Feels so good after wall to wall US news, the only TV option!

Guayaquil international airport feels so country after the big cities we have hopped through on our way north. Ours is the only flight in so all the formalities and the baggage collection are a total breeze.

It is a very big city but a bit like landing in the Territory straight out of Sydney. Except a lot more traffic. The hotel doesn’t disappoint either with a room 3 times the size of the last couple with a big picture window out to the action on the impressive Malecon.

The Malecon is the Latin American version of a waterfront promenade. In many places it is the ocean, here it is the Guayas River frontage. Several kilometres of promenade, tropical gardens, shops. It comes alive in the cool of the evening as families take the air and enjoy entertainment.

We head to Santa Ana hill and the lighthouse up the top. Only 444 steps to get up there and it is as Hot as. The steps are helpfully numbered to encourage or disappoint depending on fitness. Guards are posted all along the way either protecting us from the locals or them from us.

Bomberos. Here are the firefighters again. Just love that word. So we visit the massive museum.

Never cease to be entertained walking through the markets. So many ways to make a living. A cold glass of soft drink is an option from vendors wandering around with plastic cups and large bottles of various flavours. Almost anything seems to be available for $1 from sunglasses to belts. I buy a very nice cap for $4.

A small park in downtown Guayaquil is literally crawling with large green iguanas. Right up the trees or just lounging on the lawn, a tiny taste of exotica to come.

Friday night at our hotel turned out to be a tango party. Another delicious meal and locals start to roll in. We seem to be the only foreigners in the room. Nice family feel as everyone greets friends warmly and the busy wait staff bustle around. More and more chairs appear in the small room but the dancers weave skilfully with eyes blissfully closed, being part of the moment of the Tango.

On to the Galapagos.

Ancient Textiles, Modern Life, Old Friends – Lima

23/11/2016 by lornaontheloose, posted in Lima, Peru, South America, Travel

A large desert city where rain never falls yet it fronts the Pacific, Lima seems an incongruity. This is Peru so Coca leaf tea becomes a breakfast option. Just a short stopover in Lima as we continue to push north to start the itinerary proper.

How would a reunion for the first time in 50 years go here in Lima? Easy, relaxed and lots of fun as it turns out. Plenty to catch up on of course and Pisco Sours more than help a great evening mellow along. Jan and I last saw each other as our high school years wound up at the end of 1966. It felt a little surreal trying to marry the face in front of me with the fresh faced 16 year old that was the memory in my head.

We get a tiny taste of ex pat life on the other side of the planet and an introduction to a local delicacy – beef heart. Delicious. Honestly!

Museo Amano is the highlight of this brief visit. Dedicated to Pre-Columbian textiles, this is is a lovely museum, spaciously displaying amazing artifacts stretching back thousands of years.

I love the ancient accounting technology in the centre image above. An intricate series of knots that build on each other over time to document all kinds of important records. Everything from the census and taxation to genealogical records and songs could be recorded using this technique.

The brilliant item in the lower image is made from feathers.

Starting to get into the mode here finding venues just off the main drag that offer the Menu. A choice of three entrees, three mains plus a juice for $2.50 each. Totally tasty, filling and nutritious; popular with the locals and with us.

From the ancient to the modern, suburban Lima delights with the unexpected and interesting vignettes.

How better to enjoy our last night, for now, in Lima than watching the sunset over the Pacific at La Rose Nautica? Jan introduced us to yet another great restaurant – the food is divine.

Lima perches spectaularly on cliffs overlooking the ocean. We have driven along this amazing road a few times now and for the second evening we get to watch the blazing sun sink into the Pacific. Our restaurant sits out on a very modern pier like structure. Evening surfers brave the chill water bobbing on their boards almost within reach through the wall of picture windows that line our beautiful dining room.

Check out what happened to those 16 year old chicks. …

We’ll be back next month and then again in January but it will be hard to top these couple of days with such a nice reunion.

Sleeping in Santiago

20/11/201621/11/2016 by lornaontheloose, posted in Chile, Santiago, South America, Travel

“That is not from a pig, it is from a turkey” Marilu announced as I complimented her over breakfast on the very fine lean ham. Marilu not only sets an excellent table at her Santiago B&B, she has an engaging, generous personality sharing great advice and information about her city.

We learn that the soft mild cheese like curd is eaten with the turkey ham if one is on a diet. Otherwise, you enjoy it with Quince paste. I test the non diet version on my thoughtfully provided galletas de arroz or rice thins.

The long flight across the Pacific loops in from the South so we fly into Santiago de Chile tracking along the Andes. Not as many snowcaps as I expected, still exciting.

Summer is a few weeks away but the heat is already fierce and dry. The hottest November in 100 years. Hoses spray generously in the heat so lawns are lush and gardens thrive behind heavy duty security fencing and walls keeping grand houses safe. I worry about the water in the heat. Jacaranda are in bloom everywhere and strangely, oleander seem to be very popular. The drought is obvious elsewhere, it is as dry as a chip.

We saw some grand houses trekking the hot pavement on the way to the Consulado de Cuba. Lack of sleep and a pending virus must not deter this most important Day 1 Mission, securing the tourist card for Cuba. In Australia, there are the forms (in Spanish), the photos, the passport posting, the impossible for us timing issues, not to mention the whopping $205 fee per person! Here, apart from the 30 minute hike, cost is 5 minutes in the Consulate with a lovely woman and US$15 per person. No forms, no photos, no stress. I love it when the system works.

Second most important Day 1 Mission is to find Elena, an ex Canberra Chilean friend. The phone number is old, IT is not a happening thing so we go old fashioned, knock on the door and there she is. Smiles and hugs all round. We’ll be back to spend more time with her in February.

Santiago nestles at the foot of the Andes. The absence of snow strips the treeless mountains starkly bare. Giant angular stone cliffs are revealed, raw and dangerous looking in their nakedness. The smog haze that hangs over everything strangely makes me think of the mountains as giant shadow puppets somehow suspended behind Santiago.

Energy only for a brief tour of some city sights – Plaza de Armas, the cathedral and central market

Just getting by can involve pretty strenuous activity. Traffic lights are popular for jugglers, dancers and acrobats. Try handstands on hot tar every time the lights change to make a buck.

Los Dominicos is surprisingly untouristy in a beautiful setting with local artisans making and selling.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Our last full day is very full doing a solo walking tour of Barrio Brasil. It finishes at the Museum of Memory and Human Rights. A grim record of the events in Chile from 1973 to 1990. The military coup had taken place just a few months before I first arrived in South America early 1974. My only view of Chile that trip was Cristo Redento, the giant statue at the top of the Andes on the Argentine border.

So many young people at the museum; surreal to be exposed to such confronting information about your recent history. Australia accepted more than 6,000 Chilean refugees at that time.

This looked like us for lunch. No, not the chicken, this next place. One Spanish word means “more”, the other “less”. Take a punt on the translation.

Sleeping almost all caught up. On to the next destination.

Burma to Myanmar: Inle Lake

26/10/201621/11/2016 by lornaontheloose, posted in Inle, Myanmar, Travel

Ever been hustled after a 12 hour overnight bus journey? Vulnerable, tired, hungry, needing a bathroom – no problem. Hurry! Today is a special day.

I knew it was a special day. Our arrival had been timed to coincide with the Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda Festival at Inle Lake, Myanmar so we went along with the urgency. It meant a hatless day (who thinks of grabbing a hat in the cool grey dawn hours?), with an unfilled water bottle in a long canoe.

Just a few weeks shy of the 40th anniversary of my last visit to Burma, this was the trip that had itched my travel bone all those years. Back in the day, visas were strictly limited to one week. Visitors to Burma flew in and out of Rangoon from Calcutta and Bangkok. A lot has changed since then including the names of two of those cities and Burma itself is now called Myanmar.

Serious determination was necessary to see the highlights of Burma in seven days – the fabulous site of Bagan, the Irrawaddy River journey and everything else in between. Having caught an exceptionally nasty bug in India immediately prior to arriving on that first trip, it was all I could do to drag myself by train, third class, to Mandalay. Every day was spent in bed apart from the unforgettable vomiting in the gutter day. My longed for trip down the Irrawaddy was never going to happen.

The time to return finally arrived. Fit and well. Best of all it was with the total luxury of a 30 day visa.

Heading out onto Inle Lake, the early morning sky hung quite ominously, obliterating the mountain backdrop from view. How was this day in a very small craft going to pan out?

Our boat putted out urgently. After a largely sleepless night as the bus traversed mountain roads, mercifully dark apart from occasional lights dotting the ground far below, it all felt quite surreal. The quiet tiredness overwhelming us quickly faded away in the cool early morning air, chased further by the spray flaring up the sides of our narrow canoe.

Then we were immersed in the spectacle of the Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda Festival procession. As far as the eye could see down the lake, there seemed to be a never ending string of colourful craft and plenty of small boats just like ours being skilfully manoeuvred to get a good view. The added glee of realising the plan had worked. We had made it.

Finally the royal barge holding the dazzling pagoda shimmers by.The annual festival is a wonderful opportunity to observe the agility of the leg rowers, a skill perfected from childhood. Around 100 men in colourful outfits on each boat were accompanied by assorted drummers, support acts including dancers, and the all important water bailers somehow squeezed in amongst the rowers.

Around 40 of these boats were linked together in a long line, pulling the barge holding the Golden Pagoda and Buddha images. In spite of many small onlooker boats like ours milling and jostling for viewing space, it was a grand, amazing spectacle and this was just the start of the day.

The solemnity of the procession over, it was time for the traditional races. The sky had begun to clear revealing a better view of the mountains. Competition was intense, the pace so much more frenzied as each boat vied for the honour. I couldn’t help thinking of those leg muscles, just hoping they swapped sides of the boat on alternate days

The fishermen at Inle literally do it standing on one leg. A technique unique to Inle, one leg to row, one to stand on and two hands free to fish and cast their nets. Extraordinary sight.

The day turned into a series of picture postcards as we putted for hours around floating villages scattered around this 22 km long, 10 km wide lake. Vast expanses of floating gardens are a feature along with a variety of crafts and cottage industries – cheroots, paper making, boat builders, jewellery, weaving, cane, not to mention great places to eat.

We chose to make Nyaung Shwe our base, staying right in the heart of the festivities. Visitors were in town from many regions of Myanmar and the enormous market was constantly abuzz with fun fair activities for the kids, food stalls and goods and products to meet your every need, even more around the next corner.

Not far out of town along a picturesque road is Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery. A number of fabulous teak wood monasteries survive in Myanmar, but this one is a little out of the box with its extraordinary oval windows.

Kittens lie tumbled together, snoozing in the shafts of sunlight that break up the cool, gently darker interior. Massive beams stretch up to and across the ceilings. There is a modest and quiet grandeur about this place. Solid timber buildings are rarely anything but a delight and this one is right up there.

Even when on cycling excursions, the lake becomes a thoroughfare. Just pop down to the shore and hail a boat to cut across to the other side.A bicycle chain catastrophe created a social opportunity to meet helpful locals. Chain restored and greasy fingers cleaned with the ever ready stash of wet wipes, we were soon on our way again. We had to make the winery for sunset drinks.

Our arrival at the bike parking station coincided with workers heading home for the day. There was quite a hike ahead for us trekking up the hill on shaky (for me) bicycle legs after roaming up hill and down dale all day, but the promise of a wine toasting the sunset was not to be forgone.

Inle would never have been an option on a seven day visa first time round to Burma. Now, it is a highlight for most Myanmar visitors . Festival time in October / November is pretty special and not at all as difficult to manage as you might imagine a popular event to be. Festival time or not, it is a beautiful, friendly, laid back kind of place.

Twelve Hours from Anywhere

11/10/201621/11/2016 by lornaontheloose, posted in Hampi, India, Travel

With a nice long time frame to play with on a trip to southern India, I decided this was a destination that was going to be worth the effort. The descriptions were tantalising – forlorn ruins…an unearthly landscape…charismatic…unreal and bewitching. The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Hampi in Karnataka state was definitely beckoning.

To be totally truthful, it is possible to get to Hampi in less than 12 hours. But if you choose not to fly, with still several more hours of travel by bus, or, like me do not want to double back on the itinerary, Hampi requires some commitment.

Overnight on a flat bed in the top deck of a bus is possibly something I will only ever do once per visit to India – a sleepless night is guaranteed. Your face is is in close proximity to the roof of the bus, baggage jams your feet preventing a fully stretched out position; the journey is punctuated by blaring horns, rough roads and the driver careens at what feels like a suicidal rate around every corner. A catapult from bed across the body of the bus seems inevitable .

So that only left overnight on the train as an option. Comes with its own set of challenges but doing a train journey in India is not to be missed.

Surely an auspicious welcome to Hampi to meet Lakshmi the sacred elephant. She was completing an early morning river bathe before heading back to the temple to fulfil her blessing duties.

This is an ancient place. A Portuguese traveller recorded river crossings in coracles here 500 years ago. “…People cross to this place by boats which are round like baskets.Inside they are made of cane, and outside are covered with leather; they are able to carry fifteen or twenty persons, and even horses and oxen can cross in them if necessary..”

The coracles are still here but we chose a slightly more conventional ferry to cross to our cute thatched cottage. Staying on the other side means a ferry dependence but for me at least, the other side is an infinitely more attractive option.

The magnificent 15th century Elephant Stable was one of my favourites. Definitely fit for the state elephants. Eleven domed chambers (cover photo) are interconnected and are palatial and grand in their own right..

So nice to have plenty of time to just relax and enjoy Hampi at leisure. There is much to see in this 25 sq. km site and the surrounding countryside.

Not only is the architecture from this great Hindu Kingdom stunning, the sophistication of the stone water channels crisscrossing the site is impressive.

An Ayurvedic massage seemed like a sensible diversion on the day of a torrential downpour. It was impossible to do anything but wade to one of the selection of venues along the dirt track that passed for Main Street. Beautifully trained Kerala specialists wove their magic. Time stretched and the mind blissed, blotting out the dingy confines of the simple structure and the rain pounding down outside.

Climbing 570 steps to the top of the whitewashed Hanuman temple site is not ideal in 30 degree C (or more) temperatures. The steps relentlessly zigzag up the hill that is believed to be the birthplace of Hanuman, the monkey warrior god. The sense of achievement at reaching the top of the steep climb is high, only matched by the stunning views.

There is a suggestion that Hampi and Machu Picchu will establish a link as sister heritage sites. Great idea as how much better known is the amazing Inca site in Peru? This is a Hampi stone wall. Not as fine or impressive as those in Machu Picchu but there is plenty in Hampi to captivate anyone who wants to see more of the fabulous reminders of civilisations past.

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Ever been hustled after a 12 hour overnight bus journey? Vulnerable, tired, hungry, needing a bathroom – no problem. Hurry! Today is a special day.

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