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Travels in my Backyard

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Walking through the cane paddocks to visit my grandmother was a daily childhood event. There were many much loved rituals associated with these visits, but the one that leads us to my backyard is about bringing the cows back to the bails every evening.

Occasionally, the cows would be Down the Dusty Road. As we meandered along the middle of the road  Grandma would alert us to points of interest. That rather large furrow like track crossing though the thick bull-dust was where a snake had passed by. What sorts of birds could have made those beautifully outlined prints in the dust canvas? So many birds frequented the wetland on one side of the dusty road.

The local golf course occupied the other side of the  dusty road. The lure of lost golf balls made us forget about snakes as we foraged competitively in the guinea grass, stamping the tall spears aside just as our father fearlessly did.

More often though, the cows would be Up the Hill. We kids would swing on the vines between the trees and jump around on the strangely marked rocks. We searched out wild passion fruit delighting in popping them open. Cherry tomatoes grew wild too and were a special find. We sucked on the bright red baby tomatoes till they burst satisfactorily in our mouths, fabulously warm in the afternoon tropical sun.

Grandma had a distinctive loud C’mon call to alert the cows that their day of wandering the Hill was over.

Many decades on, I am lucky that a piece of this same spot Up the Hill is now my backyard.

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There had to be some clearing leaving a pretty bare canvas on all but the eastern boundary where trees and scrub could be retained. The outlook to the west and parts of the south and north was fabulous.

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As a gardening novice, it was only when I understood the concept of garden “rooms” that I gathered confidence and saw possibilities. Important because it was always going to pretty much be a one woman show.

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Transitioning from the big picture concept to being able to enjoy my outdoor rooms was quite a journey. A cyclone struck in the first wet season. Fallen trees were a loss, no damage done but every remaining tree was stripped of its leaves, covering the entire yard like an amazing green carpet.

Every wet season in those early years, the perils of living at the top of a hill were revealed. Downhill neighbours in several directions scored topsoil, mulch, the odd plant. The temporary blue metal from the top of the driveway went the same way. The challenge was to get the boundaries firmly established and keep the new plantings alive through the Dry season before the Wet came again. It seemed I would never get there.

Not only that, I was contending with the wildlife. Come Spring, such as it is in the tropics, my bush garden becomes an irresistible lure for the mating rituals of the scrub (Brush) turkeys who also call this hill home. The male builds an enormous mound of leaf litter designed to attract as many females as he can. Adding my entire garden mulch to the mix apparently contributes to the allure.

This giant python got a shock when I decided we could not share the same garden. Bigger than the wrangler I called in to relocate it, it went to live in a much larger bush space.

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After many losses and missteps it is taking shape. Being up in the trees, the birds are at eye level adding to the indoor outdoor feel.

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Kookaburras regularly taunt from the nearby trees with their distinctive laughter. Even nicer when they pop in for a visit.

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Up the Hill no longer resembles the untamed scrub of my childhood in the many garden living rooms, but vestiges are retained. When not on world trails far from home, there are plenty of travels to enjoy in the garden.

The Games People Play

There are still plenty of places in the world, including parts of my own country, where options for having fun can only be of your own making. Not an electronic device to be seen. These delightful children live in a small village on the far stretches of the Mekong River in Laos.

Two days on the slow boat along the Mekong from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang is an exceptionally special river journey. If you ever get the chance….

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The little truck escapes the heat for a moment.

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Even in the big smoke of downtown Luang Prabang, there are random fun and games opportunities.  Styrofoam packing had these girls giggling as they played hide and seek with me.

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But it was the streets of Yangon, Myanmar where the activity was intense and fascinating. Business is conducted on the sidewalks with food sellers and tea stalls; vendors find much needed space to manufacture their larger products; merchandise from the physical shop premises spills out onto the pavement. And still there is plenty of room  for passers by to go about their business.

This is such a universal and always interesting experience, not uncommon at all in many parts of the world.

But it seemed like quite a while since I had seen so many leisure activities also happening on the streets. Board games are always a serious business. Obviously a regular and longstanding practice here. Any little spare spot off the pavement seems to work just fine for concentration.

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Far away from the bustling city at a quiet and less well travelled ruin in Bagan.

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Just waiting for play to resume.

When Friends Drop in for Breakfast

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It wasn’t too hard to work out why our regular morning visitor chose this lovely residence. We loved it too.

Breakfast delivered every morning to the balcony which just seemed to merge with the large, tranquil and leafy courtyard of our Vientiane hostel.

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Such a polite visitor, waiting till we had finished before popping in. Isn’t that the reddest tongue you ever saw?

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Fabulous to have such a relaxing final destination in Laos after an outstanding, memorable few weeks. Definitely right up there in my top tips for South East Asia.

First Love Second Time Round

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What did we travellers do in the Olden Days to find out stuff?

Same thing everyone  does today of course – Talk to other travellers. Up to the minute, mostly, with the benefit of face to face judgment in the quality of your source.

You did of course often have to wait till you got there to get the real insights. Anything published was either well and truly dated or seemed designed for people with a lot more money.

The South American Handbook however was the gold standard of travel guides for that part of the world when I first headed there. The version illustrated on the left was published in 1973. I had never even been to the big smoke of Sydney or Melbourne; had only ever hit Brisbane in transit to a posting in Darwin from my regional and fairly rural origins before I left Australia. Had never met a soul who had been to South America. So for months I studied that book more diligently than any text book I ever picked up. It was my planning partner and as far as I knew then, my first and only reference source and port of call for for six months.

Nostalgia dictates, that for this coming trip the only way to fly is to again consult the South American Handbook. Plus I get a nifty Then and Now snap.

Years of internet research habits have of course muscled in pretty systematically over the months of planning for this forthcoming South America expedition, but The Book will be on the road with me. I expect it to be much less thumbed after the coming trip than the 1973 version now sitting in my travel library but hey, it’s a talisman as life circles back for a minute or so.

To say I’m excited about this next trip would be an understatement. A three month expedition is really only enough to pick the eyes out of Latin America  but if you add the time and joy involved in the planning phase, my pleasure is well and truly multiplied. I look forward to sharing it.

Luckily you don’t meet these people too often, but I will never forget a comment delivered to my naive excited face somewhere in the wilds of South America 42 years ago: “Oh, you should have been here 10 years ago”.

Why bother? Celebrate the experiences. It might inspire someone just like I was inspired all those years ago by the Hippie trailblazers. Even if you can’t turn up for absolutely ages, it will be special so spread the word I say and Enjoy every moment!