Lima – Lorna On The Loose

Lima has been our most visited transit stop along with Guayaquil but this is the final visit for this trip.

After three weeks in Cuba, the shopping opportunities appear so vast in Lima. There is such limited consumer availability visible to a visitor to Cuba and it is hard to find a shop as we know it selling anything. They obviously exist somewhere as our Casa owner was very proud of her new chairs.

Plaza Mayor in the Historical Centre of Lima is magnificent. The police presence on the corners is a little surprising but they looked fairly relaxed with their riot shelds propped up in front of them. The Governors palace taking up one whole side may be the reason for the security presence.

A brass band playing in the courtyard attracts plenty of cameras but the guards keep everyone well back from the wall. If you want a photo of the well fitted out band, it will be framed with the slats of the metal wall.

Our attention is drawn to the buildings on the other side which look strikingly magnificent. For around $10 we get a ticket that provides entry to the the cathedral and the adjacent Archbishops residence, now a museum.

Full of religious art in every medium from wooden life size statues, 3D tableaux, paintings and objects, we tour the opulent rooms of the museum which still house all the furnishings that were presumably in use when last occupied. Bizarrely, a very large nativity scene is in place right beside a Lima version of the Manneken Pis, the original being located in Brussels.

To say the Lima cathedral is awesome in size barely gives a true indication of the grandeur of the building. The mortal remains of Pisarro rest here in a prominent place, along with those of hundreds of lesser folk in the catacombs.

Live street art is popular along the main pedestrian boulevard down to the Plaza. Chains seemed to be a big thing with some of the “statues”.

At night Plaza San Martin and the surrounding area was very lively. Crowds gathered around people who seemed to have a political or religious opinion they needed to express. Lots of bars and eating places.

Just a short stay and such a different, richer experience to staying in the Miraflores area.

A large desert city where rain never falls yet it fronts the Pacific, Lima seems an incongruity. This is Peru so Coca leaf tea becomes a breakfast option. Just a short stopover in Lima as we continue to push north to start the itinerary proper.

How would a reunion for the first time in 50 years go here in Lima? Easy, relaxed and lots of fun as it turns out. Plenty to catch up on of course and Pisco Sours more than help a great evening mellow along. Jan and I last saw each other as our high school years wound up at the end of 1966. It felt a little surreal trying to marry the face in front of me with the fresh faced 16 year old that was the memory in my head.

We get a tiny taste of ex pat life on the other side of the planet and an introduction to a local delicacy – beef heart. Delicious. Honestly!

Museo Amano is the highlight of this brief visit. Dedicated to Pre-Columbian textiles, this is is a lovely museum, spaciously displaying amazing artifacts stretching back thousands of years.

I love the ancient accounting technology in the centre image above. An intricate series of knots that build on each other over time to document all kinds of important records. Everything from the census and taxation to genealogical records and songs could be recorded using this technique.

The brilliant item in the lower image is made from feathers.

Starting to get into the mode here finding venues just off the main drag that offer the Menu. A choice of three entrees, three mains plus a juice for $2.50 each. Totally tasty, filling and nutritious; popular with the locals and with us.

From the ancient to the modern, suburban Lima delights with the unexpected and interesting vignettes.

How better to enjoy our last night, for now, in Lima than watching the sunset over the Pacific at La Rose Nautica? Jan introduced us to yet another great restaurant – the food is divine.

Lima perches spectaularly on cliffs overlooking the ocean. We have driven along this amazing road a few times now and for the second evening we get to watch the blazing sun sink into the Pacific. Our restaurant sits out on a very modern pier like structure. Evening surfers brave the chill water bobbing on their boards almost within reach through the wall of picture windows that line our beautiful dining room.

Check out what happened to those 16 year old chicks. …