South America – Lorna On The Loose

Adventure in Patagonia

07/03/2017 by lornaontheloose, posted in Chile, Laguna San Rafael, Patagonia, South America, Travel

Our guide Russell collects us and we realise with a silent Wow, this is just going to be the two of us with him for this adventure expedition. How brilliant is that? We collect a few final provisions and head off towards Puerto Rio Tranquilo and an amazing journey.

When planning a 3 month trip there are many things that have to be planned on the road. Or they just evolve. While it was low season in places like Machu Picchu, it was going to be high season in Patagonia so this expedition was one thing that was planned many, many months in advance.

Just one chance review I happened across in months of research led me to Rio Exploradores Laguna San Rafael and what a gem of a trip that has turned out to be. A total stunner!

Timing hinged on the flight out of La Paz to Santiago going without a hitch. We needed to fly out of Santiago south to Balmaceda airport in Patagonia the very next day. Now I’ve seen people on various forums angsting about an unbelievably tiny window, maybe a matter of hours, between an international arrival and an onward flight but that is so not me. Even with 24 hours or so to play with, I was on tenterhooks on and off over the entire trip hoping that everything would go according to plan. It did!

Walking in to Balmaceda airport you stop wondering how to make the 45 minute journey into Coyhaique, our real jumping off point for this Patagonian expedition. Several different company representatives are strategically positioned in the arrivals area frantically waving tickets begging to be allowed to drive you direct to your hotel.

Coyhaique was a surprisingly happening place for a Thursday evening with a troupe of acrobatic buskers entertaining the reasonably large crowds of people thronging the Plaza and streets of this small place. I remember this is high season so there are plenty of tourists around, many of them appear to be Chileans. An excellent meal with good old-fashioned service that night sets us up for the first of four very big days in Patagonia.

From the first I found the scenery compelling

The scenery is ever spectacular. All those snow-capped mountains I have tried to snap with varying degrees of success over this last few months through dirty bus windows was so unnecessary. Everything is larger than life and immediate here. There is a never-ending feast of mountains, rivers, lakes, waterfalls and stunning scenery.

After driving for about 90 minutes we reached the end of the sealed road and stop for an excellent lunch break at Cerro Castillo. Those country Chilenas make a mean soup. From here on, we will either be only be on roads that are dusty, narrow or corrugated or a combination of all three, or, on a boat of some description.

Over the four days we total maybe 1,000 kilometres. Hard work on unsealed roads, but unfailingly awesome at every turn. Not as hard though as for the many cyclists we see who are doing over 1,000 kilometres from Puerto Montt to O’Higgins on the Carretera Austral. The corrugated roads, the dust and the narrow sections in some parts make this a journey strictly for dedicated cyclists only. Plenty of hitchhikers as well doing the trek.

Hand knitted slippers for the wooden floors

It still feels quite early in the Chilean daylight saving hours when we reach Puerto Rio Tranquilo. Not a lot of time to savour the luxury at the gorgeous Hostal El Puesto where shoes are dispensed with and woollen slippers are provided to walk around the wooden floors. We are soon heading off to tour the marble caves on Lake General Carrera, the second biggest lake in South America after Lake Titicaca. Another silent Wow as we realise what a jam-packed agenda this is going to be. Excellent.

Again it is just the two of us who head down to the picturesque little dock on the lake and head out at speed across the water. The caves and formations are a truly stunning marvel. The boatman is addicted to taking photos for his passengers it seems and snaps us at every conceivable angle at every opportunity.

Puerto Rio Tranquilo

Marble caves

It’s a small flat-bottomed boat and that’s how our rear ends feel after the trip back. The wind has picked up in the late evening and with it a pretty good swell. Our only option is to clutch the plank seat for grim death and just go with the exhilaration as we bump back over the choppy water.

Puerto Rio Tranquilo is a tiny town only 4 blocks square, but the food at El Puesto is a gourmet delight.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA — Preparing for the river crossing

An early morning start as we have to be at the river crossing by 9am and it’s another 90 minutes on another dirt road to reach the river. Russell makes it all feel so relaxed though especially with a great Playlist to choose from. There’s always time to stop at a particularly spectacular spot for photos, to watch Andean condor soaring, or to fill our water bottles from the pure water pouring down a mountain side. We drink water that has probably rested up there frozen for thousands of years. Just hard to beat.

Night two was going to be camping out but an unusually wet summer means Ian from the company Rio Exploradores has had to come up with plan B. We reach the river crossing and meet Jaime the boatman and Rosa his wife. Their old house, a very rustic cabin, will be our home for the night so we dump our bags at their new, slightly less rustic home and hit the road in the van kept on the other side of the river. Today we are with seven other travellers, still a pretty small group. We’re off to the glacier and Laguna San Rafael.

The weather is perfect after many inclement days. We feel unbelievably lucky at the momentous timing choices made at least six months ago. When we finally reach the river there is no wind so with a surface like glass, the boat journey is maybe only two hours to the glacier.

The boat is small and fast with a cabin just big enough to protect our small group of passengers should the weather be inclement. All that thermal gear we carried for 3 months around the Galapagos and everywhere else we have been is finally having its big day. We can rug up enough to be able to sit outside for as long as the skipper allows, virtually the entire 2 hours there and then 2 hours back again.

It is such an amazing, special experience that I don’t want to miss a minute sitting in the cabin.

The journey starts in the river and then we move into the fjord. Mountains reflect in the water, there are hanging glaciers, birds skim at speed unbelievably close to the water surface, then we see some penguin. After some time, ice floes appear just dotting the surface initially, increasing in size and number. A massive Leopard seal suns itself on an iceberg. Our small boat means we are able to manoeuvre to get close views to the apparent disinterest of the enormous creature.

Finally the glacier proper appears broaching down into the water.

Lunch first though in the national park, a gourmet picnic complete with a shot of Pisco. We walk along the shore and see the spot where a hotel once stood to take in the glacier views. The glacier has long since retreated far, far back from this spot.

Hotel location with a glacier view illustrates glacier retreat over the last 5 or 6 decades

The glacier is still a majestic wonder of nature though. Two kilometres across and 250 metres deep at the entry point into the water, it cracks and growls, the noise resounding like cannon. Every time there is another enormous crack I look expecting to see yet another giant slab breaking off, but this action is back in the body of the glacier amongst the crevasses as it relentlessly grinds and moves like a living beast.

Several enormous pieces do calve off though thoroughly spectacularly. There is an enormous splash as the giant ice slabs plummet down only to rise and submerge and rise again.

Some visitors take a few more risks than we do

A ritual of the glacier visit is to have a shot of whiskey, or Pisco, in a piece of glacier ice. A highly compressed solid piece of ice is ideal otherwise the alcohol quickly runs through. Luis fishes with a boat hook for the best slab he can find in the water nearby, carves a well in the top with his knife and then we sup our alcohol in turn.

Two hours back on the still glassy surface and I greedily drink in every moment of the journey out in the open back of the boat. Who knows when I will next do something like this again?

There’s still a van ride back to the river crossing and our cabin for the night. Rosa prepares a dinner of Chinook salmon from the river and Russell appears with a bottle of red. For an isolated place it is pretty convivial as people knock on the door of Jaime and Rosa’s cabin to share in some conversation or to participate in the mate tea ritual.

Sitting close to the kettle makes it easier to keep topping up that mate cup that does the rounds. Rosa and Jaime in their kitchen

The night sky is amazing and the morning light beside the fast flowing river is beautiful. We can relax at the kitchen table looking out at the river because Jaime has his work life balance well in order, the first crossings don’t start before 9am. Time to just sit right on the river edge and meditate on the beauty as cars and people start to gather on the other side waiting for the boatman.

Plan B means we will go to the Rio Baker Confluencia today. We don’t know what we have missed due to the weather enforced change of plans, but it seems you can’t go too far wrong in Patagonia. We are in for another stupendous day.

First stop is the lookout we missed on day one. It is a pretty decent hike uphill again but after weeks at altitude climbing daily, this hike basically at sea level is a snap to reach the viewing point over the Exploradores glacier and the north face of San Valentin, Patagonia’s highest and possibly most dramatic peak. It is a stunning outlook over the glacier and mountains. Several groups far below us are heading out for a day trek over the glacier. So many young Chileans are enjoying their country.

It is a Sunday and we stop at a small village on the river where a Fiesta is under way. The asada has been well attacked and the revellers are dancing to the music, playing bocce or just relaxing on the river bank. Feels like a good time for an ice cream.

Back on the road and we finally start to follow the Rio Baker. The colour is the most stunning turquoise blue. Just extraordinarily beautiful. The viewing spot is on private property but the generous owner allows public access to what is for me, one of the top highlights of the entire 3 month trip.

Again a good hike in, about 700 metres. The sheep pastures with the mountain backdrops we pass by at the start of the trail are a bit reminiscent of New Zealand. We hear the thundering noise first and then finally the majestic sight is revealed -the enormous “Salton” waterfall at the confluence of the rivers Baker and Neff.

The stretch of river leading up to the Salton is a popular kayaking or rafting spot. A couple leave the water just as we arrive in such a calm and beautiful little bay only metres from the thundering drop. Again, we almost have the place to ourselves to explore this wonder from different vantage points.

The sight is compellingly mesmerising as we watch that mass of water thundering over the rocks with such a consistently strong volume and force. Thankfully a move to dam and flood the entire valley was thwarted. I hope this beautiful part of the world remains intact.

The day is not over yet. We drive to the location of ancient rock paintings, mostly hand outlines, up on a massive rock face.

Rock paintings

Cliff

Just a small section of Patagonia was all we managed to explore in a jam packed four days, but it was such an amazing adventure with nature really. Lakes of so many different colours seemed to be around every corner, the amazing rivers, glaciers, waterfalls with the majestic Andes Mountains as an ever present backdrop.

I loved every minute of this trip as you may be able to guess and a return to Patagonia has to be on the cards in the not too distant future.

Briefly in Bolivia

23/02/2017 by lornaontheloose, posted in Bolivia, Copacabana, La Paz, Pumapunku, South America, Tiwanaku, Travel

For days Lake Titicaca has been our companion and now we travel out of Puno alongside it towards Bolivia.

This is a walk over border from Peru to Bolivia and of course it is up an inevitable hill, still at altitude. Makes me recall the range of different border crossings I have ever made.

The main thing is that this for me is a legal crossing so I record the event. In 1974, Australians needed visas all through South America, but we were assured in Brazil, no problem, no visa necessary. Perhaps one of those Austria / Australia problems.

Anyway after a week on a river boat going up the Amazon doing the hammock on the deck thing, followed by another 5 days on the Rio Madeira, a tributary of the Amazon, we crossed into the wilds of far northern Bolivian at Guajara Merim. Sans visa like innocent babes in the woods.

An unshaven rough looking man with a large pistol very obviously bulging in his back pocket accosted us in the hotel asking for our passports. In the face of our understandable reluctance, a tall American with a monkey on his shoulder (dead set true story) strolled by as if on cue and suggested we comply because this unlikely looking character was the chief of police.

Long story short, we didn’t end up in a Bolivian jungle jail for not having a visa. In fact we became the new best friends of the police chief for the week we were stranded there waiting for transport out. He very generously took us out to lunch but somehow made the American rancher from up river pay the tab.

Back to this trip, Copacabana is just over the border in Bolivia and here we stayed for 3 days in a fabulous hostel, La Cupula, with our own fireplace in the room and stunning lake views. Two alpacas were also permanent residents in the beautiful gardens.

One little strip of street in Copacabana is home to every traveller who passes through. Backpacks, beards, and long hair from one end to the other along with the odd buskers and travellers selling jewellery presumably to fund a bit more travel. Restaurants, tour organisers and shops selling woollen garments, jewellery and knick knacks line the street which leads down to the lake.

In spite of the freezing water, the lake is alive with activities for young and old and one hardy gent even takes a swim.

Great place to chill and relax for a few days – apart from the hill climbs of course.

We have an international connection in La Paz so a deadline approaches and we are back on a bus. At a point where the lake pinches in, there is a barge crossing. We need to cross the lake to get on the highway to La Paz so passengers are offloaded and the bus goes onto a barge with several cars. It takes us bus passengers a little while to realise we have to buy a ticket and hop onto a small motor boat replete with copious fumes to meet the bus.

After so long with the Lake as our companion, I miss it when we finally part ways and keep looking thinking I see it. The biggest lake in South America and such an iconic travel destination, for me at least.

Before we reach La Paz we have to negotiate El Alto, a city on the plain high above La Paz. This stretch of road in is an unbelievable nightmare section, totally congested as every car, truck and bus going in about 5 different directions on the dusty unmade road converges and no one wants to budge from their position. This is all a totally normal driving strategy, it just doesn’t work here because there are huge mounds of dirt where presumably there may have once been a bit more room to manoevre. Somehow we make it through eventually taking about 2 hours to do 60kms but the first sighting of La Paz itself makes it all worthwhile.

The city sits encased in a deep valley in the mountains and is quite spectacular. Once you are down in the city though, the streets are the inevitable steep hills to climb no matter where you want to go.

Just a very short stay but we want to go to Tiahuanaco or Tiwanaku, a pre-Incan civilization almost all the way back to Lake Titicaca but in a different direction from where we have just come.

Such a contrast to Machu Picchu in terms of visitor numbers, it is fabulous from our point of view with so few people venturing out here. One of our few tours, it was very modestly priced for a very full day and just so worth it.

Almost the very first thing you see in the first of two museums is a monolith of staggering proportions, 7.3 metres high. In spite of having resided outside a sports stadium in La Paz for 70 years in all sorts of conditions, ironically photography is now prohibited. Just a stunning spectacle.

The Sun Gate is the other famous work standing out in the ruins. As with many places both here and in Peru, many of the ruins are roped off.

Back in La Paz, there are many museum possibilities but not enough time so we opt for the musical museum. Great choice, it was so excellent.

It’s an early morning trip to the airport but the day dawns bright and clear yet again. As the highest international airport in the world at just over 4,000 metres, we traverse one last time the steep climb up out of the valley to the flatter El Alto. The tightest connection of the trip because we need to fly south the very next day from Santiago to Patagonia but I need not have worried. Having prebooked the more expensive national carrier throughout, the strategy appears to have paid off.

Experimenting with the multi city bookings helped to keep it a bit more economical and made a framework we had to run with. Turned out to be a good thing in the end I think with just 3 short months to play with.

All 13 LATAM flights have been on schedule, staff have been helpful and our luggage has always been there. Pretty good even though the in flight offering on an international flight would disappoint most. I’m used to not being able to eat most airline food, so no dramas for me.

Barely a week in Bolivia. It was added in to the journey more as a logistical tactic to get back to Santiago, but provided a few special experiences and a nice opportunity for reminiscing on my youthful adventures.

Colca Canyon

13/02/201713/02/2017 by lornaontheloose, posted in Cabanaconde, Colca Canyon, Peru, South America, Travel

Road washout between Cusco and Chivay. We either abandon Colca Canyon altogether given our time frame, or take the expensive option and fly into Arequipa. Colca wins so we book another flight.

Just a 1 hour hop in the plane through the Andes. As we approach Arequipa, Colca is right there out the window and we seem to be not much higher than the snow caps. Very spectacular.

Arequipa is a bit lower in altitude than Cuzco but we will be ascending even higher again over the next couple of days

Heavy fog covers Arequipa as we head out on a pretty dodgy long detour. So lucky to fly in on time early the day before. The fog and cloud continues for several hours as we slog up the mountain behind slower vehicles. Next to nil visibility means passing is impossible.

Headgear worn by the women in these parts consists of beautifully embroidered white hats. Many women wear blankets wrapped around over their other clothes. The clouds close in again and as we stop to pick people up on the side of a hill, snow is falling.

This is the coldest it’s been so far and condor sightings are really looking a slim possibility in this weather – we do know we are in the wrong season but there’s always a hope.

After a barren landscape covered only with rocks, small bushes and spiky grasses that look like an army of smurfs positioned between the rocks, we finally start to get some canyon views.

When we do eventually get to Chivay, we are grateful to be going direct to our ultimate destination of Cabanaconde because the bus is full and everyone getting on at Chivay has to stand for quite a while.

Sitting on the right side of the bus is pretty important as the aisle full of standing people out of Chivay means there is nothing visible from the left.

In spite of fogged windows with droplets running down, the compulsion to snap away is strong. Plenty of alpaca are around and many are in such a picturesque landscape. Some good views of snow caps as well.

Only about an hour late into Cabanaconde but safe and sound after a fairly arduous weather impacted drive uphill, up mountain really, most of the way. I spot our hostel as we drive in to the tiny village in the rain and dark, but someone is waiting to meet us anyway.

We park straight in the restaurant close to the wood fire pizza oven to indulge in a glass of Argentine red and a very welcome huge meal, alpaca and pizza respectively.

20170124_061732 — Coffee break in Cabanaconde

In spite of an obvious zero chance of condor sighting, we break out the thermals and head out the next morning in the Pachamama kombi van to the main viewing spot. We are practically the last to leave the viewing site because it is so beautiful in the clouds. There are two other viewing spots, again no luck, but some spectacular views. It is now possible to see the trekking paths down the valley and up the other side, along with villages on the other side where the trekkers stay overnight.

Kombi ready for the road. Check out that January weather

Back in Cabanaconde, we are perhaps the only tourists in town not trekking for 2 or 3 days, but we head out on our own mini hike. Valley views are beautiful and in the far distance there is a waterfall pouring out with tremendous force.

Plenty of livestock to be seen in rough stone pens and the valley below is just covered in a patchwork of farms. A woman who has just fed her pigs is keen to have a little chat.

20170126_042808 — Like a mini Goreme landscape

20170126_043228 — Tourist snaps, not a condor

Cabanaconde has obviously attracted a few characters. We find a food spot that looks interesting and get a couple of great coffees from one such character.

Banana late lunch on the terrace of Pachamama watching the ever changing clouds hiding and then exposing the mountains surrounding us. Yet to see the volcano but who knows what tomorrow will bring. It is an amazing part of the world.

The road to Puno beckons and yes, we do end up seeing both the volcano and the condor. A phenomenal performance from several of the massive birds as if tracking us on the road and then swooping right alongside our viewing point.

Machu Picchu

06/02/2017 by lornaontheloose, posted in Cuzco, Machu Picchu, Ollantaytambo, Peru, Sacred Valley, South America, Travel

What must it be like to live in a small village already at way over 3,000 metres, where sheer mountains rise up directly above for maybe up to 1,000 to 2,000 metres more like a giant fence of random but all encompassing rock.

We have been in this environment for a few days now. I try to take some comfort from the fact that the mountains appear to be solid rock in light of the huge amounts of seismic activity in Peru. The train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes follows the river along a very narrow passage through the mountains. Sometimes it is too narrow and we pass through a tunnel. The peaks rise up above us like giants looking down benignly with the highest reaching a snow capped 5,700 metres. A number of snow caps are more easily seen on the return journey.

Meanwhile the river is like none I’ve ever seen before. Full of absolutely massive rocks, the water tumbles through at phenomenal speed in an absolutely lethal spectacle. It is awesomely mesmerising.

Maybe halfway into our 90 minute journey the vegetation changes from being quite sparse with cacti and bromeliads to a more sub tropical feel. Warmer temperatures and more rain allow high altitude palms and orchids to flourish.

We kept our eyes peeled for the Spectacle Bear and the National bird Cock of the Rock along the way but no luck there.

Aguas Calientes is an end of the line pit stop with a feel of the wild west. Wall to wall eateries compete for your custom. Luckily someone from our hostel met us at the train as I don’t think my mud map would have worked in the rabbit warren. Looking over the rooftops reveals what looks like a shack shanty town on top of the touristy outlets at ground level.

Just up the steps is The Tree House restaurant. Obviously a foodie spot that we managed to luck into.

We meet people who like us have trained in to do Machu Picchu the next day. I would love to know how it panned out for some. A young Paraguayan woman who didn’t like heights and wasn’t sure she’d even go. An American woman just puffed out from walking up to the restaurant had a ticket to climb the mountain behind Machu Picchu which appears to be a vertical climb taking a couple of hours.

We head out at 05.30 and the queue for the bus is good 300 metres long – and it’s uphill to get to the end of the queue. People would have been there at 03.30 to get the first bus. It’s pretty efficient though and we are on a bus in 40 minutes with a 20 minute ride up the mountain.

A number of fit young things are walking up from the base. Extremely hard work

The clouds start to lift as we walk up to the Sun Gate

There is still cloud cover but we hopefully head up to the Sun Gate. Lots of early arrivers are heading down not having seen the sun. We pike at a great spot after 20 minutes and are rewarded with the sun breaking through the clouds wafting over the main site.

Fascinating with cloud cover, it is stunning in full sun light. We head down to join the masses. This is low season yet there are hundreds of people still and more continue to arrive.

Looking awesome on a beautiful January day

My big mission is to find the location of my 1974 photo and recreate the event. I was already sure this would not be possible having seen many lovely places roped off.

We show the photo to one of the attendants. He smiled “Yes it is 3 Windows, but no puede”. OK, I can’t, so I find something a bit similar and Kerri snaps away until another attendant tells me I can’t have my leg hanging down.

It has been a full on few days and we leave Machu Picchu satisfied but exhausted. We jagged the timing for the day. Around lunch time it started to pour rain – those who got a later start would not have had such a pleasant experience.

There are 2 seasons here, wet and dry. So, for visitors in the rainy season, an overnight in Aguas Calientes with a very early morning start to get up the mountain would be my top tips to give yourself the best chance of a great experience of this magical place. We haven’t been here that long but it seems to rain later in the day and overnight.

I am glad I first visited in an easier and less well touristed time when you could clamber wherever you liked, but it’s pretty special to return nearly 43 years later and fulfil that long held promise to myself. So here’s the homage to my youthful adventurous self albeit not quite as I planned. 1974 – 2017.

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Ollantaytambo – Sacred Valley Peru

31/01/2017 by lornaontheloose, posted in Cuzco, Machu Picchu, Ollantaytambo, Peru, Sacred Valley, South America, Travel

The main square in Ollantaytambo is charming.

Finally we are heading for the Sacred Valley and will use Ollantaytambo as an entry and exit point. The collectivo drops us of in yet another charming village Plaza and we make our way to Intitambo, our resting spot for two nights.

What a warm and welcoming hostel. None of these mountain hostels have heating but seem to be very well designed and constructed with extremely cosy beds.

The terrace looks straight out onto the ruins and always up, up to the peaks of the surrounding mountains.

Climbing any of the ruins in the Sacred Valley has an element of risk. We hear that the Pisac ruins are closed due to someone falling. Another person has died while doing a star jump for a photo and falling off a cliff – that is according to some reports. We see people doing exactly that so could be correct (star jumps that is, not falling).

The Ollantaytambo ruins extend up the mountain with various temples and the ever present water features at the base. In the wet season, mornings seem to be the optimal time to set out. The tracks may be a little precarious in the rain, though the yellow ponchos high up tell the story that people do undertake it in the rain.

Time is obviously a factor for a lot of people heading to Machu Picchu, so many seem to head straight back to Cuzco. Exhaustion plus in my book after a big day at MP. But if time is not an issue, Ollantaytambo is a perfect spot with nice accommodation, food and coffee. What more could you need?

Cuzco – Peru

31/01/2017 by lornaontheloose, posted in Cuzco, Machu Picchu, Peru, Sacred Valley, South America, Travel

Cuzco is a gem in the Peruvian Andes. Hippie heaven in another time, now a flashpacker paradise. This time I fly in rather than take an arduous bus ride from Lima. The taxi winds its way in El Centro through streets absolutely never designed for vehicular traffic.

We rattle over cobble stones and take our chances with the oncoming vehicles. Backing up is the only option, in the narrow streets that are reminiscent of Sevilla in terms of the dimensions.

At our highest elevation so far, there is no time to worry about altitude sickness, important business to attend to. First stop Plaza Mayor for Peru rail, but we just have to stop and take it in, the Plaza is splendidly beautiful and grand.

Train tickets to Aguas Calientes in hand and at phenomenal expense for a 90 minute journey, next stop the government department that sells entry tickets to Machu Picchu. A bit of a queue here and luckily we have plenty of soles because US$ are not accepted. Passports are required for both the train and MP tickets.

So over $300 each all up just to get the return train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes and to get into MP. Will be another US$50 for the return bus from AC to MP and return. Luckily it is only about $4 to get to Ollantaytambo from Cusco!

Priorities complete, we can now eat lunch, it’s nearly 4pm.

One of the things I love about South America and Cuba as well, is that there is never a wrong time to eat. If you want a 3 course meal at 4pm, no problem. If it’s only a small snack at 8pm also no problem.

Back to our lovely hostel, so convenient apart from the fact it’s uphill with just 67 or so steps at the end of the climb – that’s Cuzco. After 3 weeks of internet deprivation in Cuba, there is a lot of catch up and research waiting to be done.

Day 2 in Cuzco and instead of searching for the local bus, we take the expensive option and get a taxi to Tambomachay. It’s only about 8kms up the road, and the key word is UP. We go to about 3,700 metres and the plan is to walk back to Cuzco taking in the Inca ruins on the way.

There is quite a long walk in to the Tambomachay ruins and we are puffing a bit even on the flat to start with. We purchase the tourist ticket that covers 16 different sites through the Sacred Valley and will cover us for 10 days.

Such a beautiful location with the inevitable fast flowing water that seems to be present in every Andean location in this part of Peru. A herd of sheep flash down the adjacent hillside adding a touch of life to the ancient beauty we are exploring.

Just across the road is Pura Pucara, stop two in the ruins exploration for the day.

From here, we decide to take unmarked trails cross country to get to the next site. I have written some directional notes so we set off confidently past a huge stand of very tall eucalypts.

Immediately we know this was a great decision. It is so green, lots of rain here, and the countryside is stunning. We pass crops, stock and farms.

After about half an hour or so, my notes seem to taper and we are on the verge of heading back toward the road. Suddenly, from behind, we are hailed. “Going to the Temple of the Moon? I am going, come with me.”

Our impromptu guide sets a cracking pace

Carrying an enormous shovel, the local man is clearly on his way to work somewhere. Seems like a great option so we take up the offer. He speaks no English but endeavours to educate us on the way, drawing a mud map of the extent of the Inca empire.

He points out the potatoes, an amazing range available in Peru, and plucks two different sorts of wild mint. The aroma of the first is so strong and aromatic, unlike any mint I have smelt before.

In spite of these interludes, he is clearly in a hurry. “Walk faster”.

We walk at an absolutely cracking pace, luckily mostly downhill. I am mesmerised by his feet and legs and keep a close eye on where he is stepping as we proceed along the rough and sometimes wet track.

His lower legs and feet look as if they have been beautifully crafted from clay, they are so sturdy, brown, strong and slightly muddy in the simple sandals.

Muy tranquilo he says waving at the spectacular landscape we are walking through. Absolutely, there is no better description to describe where we are. Just a wonderful 20 minutes or so sharing a small journey with this lovely man.

The Temple of the Moon is a good resting spot after our exertions in getting there. Having seen no one for an hour or more, it suddenly becomes comparatively busy. Locals are enjoying a Sunday picnic and tourists are coming in on horses from the lower ruins. Feels pretty special to have had that interlude on our own.

Next stop Q’enqa followed by the big one Saqsahuaman.

Coming from this direction and after such a huge effort already, it seems like a very long walk in to Saqsa. Beats coming the other way though which is as uphill as you can get from Cuzco.

Have to say I am a bit excited as this is one place I visited in 1974 and here it is. Wonderful to see again.

In spite of weary bodies, we have to do the main section, then it is downhill, sometimes just as difficult as uphill, back to Cuzco.

Plans for further activities are abandoned as we are stuffed to use the vernacular, so have a late lunch again, a coffee at our favourite spot and retire for the day with a cup of coca leaf tea.

The bed is super cosy with blankets and doona, no heating needed though I sneeze if I venture to the bathroom in bare feet. Quite cold at night. In spite of walking maybe 20kms at altitude over about 5 or 6 hours I don’t sleep as well as I thought I would. Maybe the body is overtired or maybe a couple of late coca leaf teas was not a good idea.

Real yoghurt, white and creamy is a treat for breakfast. I have to say that because to date Peruvian yoghurt has been bright pink and fairly liquid. Cuzco offers plenty of culinary treats. Kerri tries alpaca steak which she enjoys.

What I enjoy is a menu that has GF written after many meal options. That’s a first for me in South America even though I have no problem finding gluten free food. It’s a little more expensive not being able to eat a sandwich or pizza which seem to be available everywhere.

You’ve not heard anything until you hear prolonged, enormously loud claps of thunder bounce around the surrounding Andes mountains. Stupendously awesome. Even our favourite coffee barista was moved to call on her God at the noise level.

She recovers enough to tell us in such careful Spanish that I am able to get most of it, about the Fiestas that are currently happening in Cuzco. Every day different areas or suburbs are celebrating their saints. With a warning to be very careful of our belongings in the crowds, she encourages us to go to one. Sounds too good to miss.

San Sebastian Plaza is a riot of colour and noise. Participants are dressed in so many varieties of elaborate costumes. Masses of bands are playing so loudly the noise seems to vibrate right through me. As they finally start to march off, various band members gradually straggle out from a nearby drinking establishment. The crowds wait patiently but surge and relocate as the procession moves on. The dancers and musicians must be exhausted by the end. The day is very hot and most of the costumes are all encompassing often including full face masks.

Tomorrow we head off for three days to Ollantaytambo and Aguas Calientes for the Machu Picchu adventure.

Lima -Third and Final Brief Stop

27/01/2017 by lornaontheloose, posted in Lima, Peru, South America, Travel

Lima has been our most visited transit stop along with Guayaquil but this is the final visit for this trip.

After three weeks in Cuba, the shopping opportunities appear so vast in Lima. There is such limited consumer availability visible to a visitor to Cuba and it is hard to find a shop as we know it selling anything. They obviously exist somewhere as our Casa owner was very proud of her new chairs.

Plaza Mayor in the Historical Centre of Lima is magnificent. The police presence on the corners is a little surprising but they looked fairly relaxed with their riot shelds propped up in front of them. The Governors palace taking up one whole side may be the reason for the security presence.

A brass band playing in the courtyard attracts plenty of cameras but the guards keep everyone well back from the wall. If you want a photo of the well fitted out band, it will be framed with the slats of the metal wall.

Our attention is drawn to the buildings on the other side which look strikingly magnificent. For around $10 we get a ticket that provides entry to the the cathedral and the adjacent Archbishops residence, now a museum.

Full of religious art in every medium from wooden life size statues, 3D tableaux, paintings and objects, we tour the opulent rooms of the museum which still house all the furnishings that were presumably in use when last occupied. Bizarrely, a very large nativity scene is in place right beside a Lima version of the Manneken Pis, the original being located in Brussels.

To say the Lima cathedral is awesome in size barely gives a true indication of the grandeur of the building. The mortal remains of Pisarro rest here in a prominent place, along with those of hundreds of lesser folk in the catacombs.

Live street art is popular along the main pedestrian boulevard down to the Plaza. Chains seemed to be a big thing with some of the “statues”.

At night Plaza San Martin and the surrounding area was very lively. Crowds gathered around people who seemed to have a political or religious opinion they needed to express. Lots of bars and eating places.

Just a short stay and such a different, richer experience to staying in the Miraflores area.

Adios Ecuador For Now

25/12/2016 by lornaontheloose, posted in Ecuador, Jazz, Pan American highway, South America, Travel

20161210_052203 — Piano accordion, always special and this guy was good. Quito

An enormous bed of fluffy, whipped but uncooked meringue appears to lie below us as we fly from Guayaquil to Quito. Quito is pushing close to 3,000 metres so I wonder how we will go coming in to land in the mountains in this cloud cover.

No problem. As if by magic, the clouds break and we fly between mountains that look so green after the grim drought conditions further south. Quito seems to go on forever, with buildings up and down and along the mountain slopes and we come in to land uneventfully.

A small door on the narrow cobbled Quito street opens into a spacious old building of wooden floors, beautiful corridors and great facilities. Our room is large with windows that open onto a lovely internal courtyard garden. There are sitting areas, a huge breakfast area, a games room and a patio looking up to the hills and night lights.

Just around the corner is La Ronda, a pedestrian street of artesan shops, restaurants, music and popular in the evenings.

Just a few blocks the other way is the Grand Plaza. Alive with people trying to make a living, families out and about – it feels like the kind of place you would run into everyone you know if you just waited long enough.

The architecture keeps us looking up and around. The large internal courtyards are endlessly delightful.

20161210_052329 — Delicious cherries. Quito

I spot a coffee shop tucked away and can tell at 50 metres it will have great coffee. Right there in central Quito we get a flat white with all the flourishes we are used to. It can be a very long walk to find an acceptable coffee. We often opt to go without. Coffee snobs.

Visiting the equator is something you kind of feel obliged to do when on the spot. Mitad del Mundo was probably my least enjoyable excursion so far. There were some lovely parts to the day like the imploded crater in particular, and the museum, but in general the touristified setup was depressing. Just my opinion and maybe the altitude was making me a little grumpy that day.

Of course nothing stays the same, but my memory of the 1974 visit is the one I will try to keep uppermost in my mind.

The touristy day out confirms for me that we will skip Banos and head straight to the jungle. What a brilliant move that turned out to be. Check it out on Amazon Adventure Ecuador.

So here we are in Cuenca after the most extraordinary few days in he jungle and having been told from several quarters this is a difficult option to try to get to Cuenca from Tena. Getting around Ecuador is relatively easy, but it seems our decision to skip Banos makes the next stage not quite so straight forward.

20161217_091933 — Pork is popular in this small highway town.. Shop after shop has an entire huge pig carcass hanging out front. This one is almost stripped down to just skin flaps

In the event, we find the trip not so bad at all, apart from the 5 hour leg to Riobamba without a comfort stop.. The fact that we have such gorgeous hotels in Riobamba and then Cuenca definitely makes it all worthwhile.

I doze off as the bus perpetually winds and climbs and wake just in time to see the Sky Door and glimpse through a break in the mountains a fabulous outlook framed against a perfect blue sky. Hydroelectric schemes then a couple of tunnels through mountains and we hit Banos.

Just out of town, the police flag us down and two people are taken off the bus. The back seat area where they had been sitting is very thoroughly searched. We move on, left to guess what that was about.

Travelling on South American buses is nothing like a long distance bus trip in Asia or most other places for that matter. We have a terminal to terminal ticket with an allocated seat, but the locals get on and off all along the way. Never ceases to fascinate me how people get on and then barely a few metres later, we stop again for more people. Why do they not stand together my organised brain can’t help but ask. The conductors are older and more professional these days but they still repetitively yell out our destination as we pass through hamlets and villages. Just in case passers by want to go there.

20161217_091732 — Love the Sunday best straw hat perched atop the more practical everyday felt hat. On the Buses.

Then there are the vendors who hop on the bus selling everything from fresh banana cake to mandarins, movie dvds, potato chips and drinks. Every so often, someone will get on with a long and compelling story to tell about his products. Always seems to be a man, takes several minutes to tell the story at the front of the bus then moves along the corridor pressing 4 different types of sweets on everyone – just to have a look. Over the journey I see people obediently taking the little bundle on more than one occasion only to hand it back as the bus reaches the end of the town and the vendor has to get off.

A never ending stream of fascinating people get on and off the bus. Sometimes standing room only.

Riobamba still has some cobbled streets in the centre of town but nothing else triggers my memory banks. Who could fail to be impressed when we are offered a real coffee on entering Casa 1881. Massive room, enormous bathroom, great breakfast and they have Netflix. Nice.

Seems to be only one company running a bus service from Riobamba to Cuenca, endless others going to Quito and Guayaquil. Momentarily, I worry the plan is going awry but spot the one and only company at the very last window at the terminal.

The Pan-American Highway stretches about 48,000 kms and we get to ride a stretch through the Andes. We are on one mountain slope that merges into another and another, just across the way is another string of mountains. Any time the valley between widens out, there are farms and dwellings. When it is even wider, there are townships, some quite big. Some valleys are lush with many small crops and a few sheep, cows, pigs, horses and donkeys. Other valleys are drier and the vegetation stubby.

Some towns have huge statues gracing their main street, usually three well spaced out. The standard format seems to be an indigenous person followed by a missionary and finally what I guess is a colonial administrator.

We drive through clouds and above clouds, with never a straight stretch of road.

20161217_092311 — Mums hover protectively around the tots in the Cuenca procession

Cuenca we just loved and spent all our time there wandering around the central area visiting museums and enjoying the architecture.

Our final night dinner at La Vina in Cuenca was so good. A recommendation from Alberto at Casa Ordonez, our very beautiful old hotel. I’d punt it is the best Italian food within a 10 hour plane ride. Plus it is the home of the Ecuador jazz society. A seat upstairs gives you front row seats to the live music which matches the food in excellence.

The final drive to Guayaquil is beautiful passing through the Cajas national park. Waterfalls, tumbling streams and lakes that have formed in any depression in the mountains. Finally we are back on the coastal plain and it feels strange to be driving on a flat, straight road after what has felt like weeks driving through the mountains. Tree ferns and palms reappear followed by broad acre farming – bananas, rice, cacao and sugar cane.

Guayaquil is super hot, so jumpers come off, hats and sandals come on.

Ecuador has been just an awesome destination. Such diversity in a relatively small area and so accessible. Apparently tourism is down, I am guessing the Zika virus media frenzy we were exposed to may be a contributor.

If Ecuador is on your radar, you won’t be disappointed. Check out my other Ecuador posits

Galapagos- Isabela and San Cristobal

Galapagos – A Tropical Desert

Tango and Iguanas – Guayaquil

Amazon Adventure Ecuador

18/12/2016 by lornaontheloose, posted in Amazon, Ecuador, South America, Tena, Travel

The Napo River rises in the Andes in north eastern Ecuador and makes its way to feed into the Amazon River. Having travelled halfway up the Amazon from the mouth at Belem to Manaus on a river boat in 1974 followed up by a second week heading south on the Rio Madeira on a smaller river boat to end up at Guajara Mirim on the Brazil and far northern Bolivian borders, I am keen to explore some of the western reaches of Amazonia.

A Napo River adventure ticks all the boxes.

We tee up an excursion and head out of Quito on an extremely winding but very good road to Tena.

Our destination is Casa Blanca for 2 nights plus a 2 day jungle excursion with Gary. There are just the two of us so we pay a premium for the trip, but it does mean we get a totally private tour. Excellent decision.

Casa Blanca is about a 15 minute walk down the old airport strip to town but the hostel is very well set up thanks to US co-owner, Michelle.

The kitchen is large with everything you could need from a microwave to a rice cooker,even a recipe book and guide to exotic fruits plus a full laundry for the use of guests. Hammock in the room is a nice touch. Sweetest of all, fresh potable water throughout every tap in the place.

We set out at 9am, collect spare torch batteries and head off. First stop Capuchin monkeys but it has been raining so today we only see a mum and her bub. Mum steals a red onion from the fabulously stocked fruit and vegie shop and proceeds to peel it and rub all over herself. Tears literally spurt from her eyes but she persists with the anti vermin treatment.

Down to the Napo river and we head off in our motorised canoe. The river is quite low so we zig and zag, negotiating rapids from time to time. Gary checks the water level with a large pole.

Delightful to be back on a river and the jungle views are often very close with occasional habitations and resulting human activity. Still, we feel we almost have it to ourselves.

Sacha Sisa Amazon Lodge is perfect with rough timber walls, perfectly fine beds and our own bathroom. Mind, the termites are hard at work in the bathroom – an occupational hazard of timber structures in the jungle. There is a large open eating area plus another bar come river and jungle observation area, not to mention the hammocks to lounge in. We relax after walking up the 160 steps past little waterfalls and dense growth. We will do these steps a couple of times before our stay is out.

The Oropendola birds keep us entertained. So fast as they flit and call to each other in the trees tantalizingly close to our room, the yellow feathers striking against the black. Their enormous pendulous nests hang high up in the trees and they go in and out like our Sunbird only on a gigantic scale.

20161217_223723 — Enormous nests hang high in the trees

20161214_131434 — Hard to get a shot of these beautiful birds they are so fast

Lunch, which is more than I can eat, over and we head off on the first jungle walk for a couple of hours. Rubber gumboots plus a substantial hiking stick are the order of the day. There is a lot of scrambling up and down some of it relatively steep and we are grateful the wet season has not started.

20161214_212044 — Leaf cutter ants hard at work

Gary imparts so much information about medicinal plants as a starter. We are familiar with some of the first herbs we encounter, cilantro or coriander, basil just growing wild, gingers. Heliconiums are everywhere, but so many more plants, herbs and trees that are new to us.

The white cacao is different to the dark chocolate producing cacao. We examine the contents of the huge pod fresh and get to eat the beans roasted up for dinner. Delicious.

Once it gets dark we head off on the night tour, torch in one hand, walking pole in the other, to again clamber up and down along a jungle track. With total faith in Gary and his machete we just go with the flow and enjoy. His eagle eyes spot tiny creatures like tarantula and poison dart frogs.

The cry of an owl on the full moon night releases another legend from Gary with references to Romeo and Juliet. We sleep to jungle noises including the owl.

An early morning start before breakfast. This is going to be a big day. We cross the river and head off down a track to try for some bird spotting. Seeing and hearing the woodpecker in action is a novelty for us. So called prehistoric birds cluster in trees across from a small hide. Called Hoatzin, they have wing claws which leads to the prehistoric reference.

Back for breakfast and we leave the lodge. More new sights as we head towards one of the highlights of the trip. There is the curare vine and a plant reputed to be good for diabetes, but the blood tree is amazing. A small cut in the trunk and it exudes a sap looking for all the world like dark venous blood. We hear the legend of this tree and then Gary rubs the sap onto our arms. Amazingly as he rubs it become a white paste which when dry acts as a protection over a wound, like a latex cover or a fine bandaid. So many more stories from Gary that he learned growing up from his Grandfather, an expert in jungle medicine.

We embarrass ourselves trying to harvest yucca by pulling too fast and leaving half he tuber in the ground and then replant two for the ones we dug up.

As we walk through the jungle, a man and woman approach. He is shirtless wearing camouflage pants, boots and wields a large machete. The outline of a jaguar is tattooed on his upper arm. He greets us all with a handshake and a Buenos Dias. Later we see them walking along the river, he with an enormous pump hoisted on his shoulders. They disappear down river to go about their business.

20161217_223613 — Jaguar tattooo man puts a shirt half on and heads off

In a small clearing, we head towards an open structure to experience something quite extraordinary. Cacao beans are roasted over an open fire. A heavy old mincer is attached to the end of a stool and with a lot of muscle power, the beans are fed through the mincer to create a pure bitter chocolate paste. Next stage, raw sugar and water is added to the paste, it goes back over the fire and boiled down to make chocolate. The best part is that we then get to taste the end product via a strawberry and banana fondue. Divine is an understatement, can hardly bear to stop eating it!

Further down river is the butterfly farm, only 112 steps up to this. Again, a most amazing experience as we walk around an environment with about 30 different types of butterflies fluttering all around and on us.

20161217_235250 — Can’t stop taking butterfly photos

20161214_132534 — Such a beautiful place

Monkey Island provides excellent views of Wooly monkeys.

Across the river is the picnic lunch spot and a feast is prepared for us on the river bank.

Amazoonica is our final stop for the day. Pretty much run by volunteers, our guide is Paul from Berlin who is doing a 3 or 4 month stint. All the animals here have been rescued or confiscated and are not fit to be re-released back into the wild. Tamarind monkeys, ocelots, caiman, macaws, toucans, Amazon parrots and so many more are housed in an extensive natural environment.

20161214_133404 — Blue and yellow Macaw lost his mate so an unusual pairing with Amazon parrot

Back on the canoe for the final leg of this wonderful river journey and jungle excursion.

20161214_133641 — School is out, time to go fishing

We catch up with the Capuchin monkeys who are out and about now and feed them grapes.

20161214_211520 — Capuchin loving the grapes

There is something quite special for me about river travelling. Napo River is added to the list of river travels I have made over the years and is right up there for sheer enjoyment. The breadth and depth of our experiences in the time we spent with Gary over those two days would be hard to match anywhere.

Don’t miss Ecuador and don’t miss the jungle.

Galapagos- Isabela and San Cristobal

08/12/2016 by lornaontheloose, posted in Ecuador, Galapagos, South America, Travel

Think Bali from the 70’s or 80’s. Think north Queensland seaside towns from the 50’s or 60’s and you start to get a feel for Isabela.

The buildings are quite different and there are plenty of eating venues, but there’s something pretty nice about strolling down a sandy road in the shorts and t shirt you’ve been wearing for days greeting fellow passers by with a friendly Hola.

The powerful motors of the launch from Santa Cruz to Isabela push us through the largely calm waters. I get an optical illusion from my side on view sitting toward the back of the small boat that the horizon is greatly diminished in distance. As the swell builds a little we almost appear to be below the water line. There are about 18 of us and no one can speak above the engine throb. In spite of that it is a relatively meditative experience and in less than 2 hours we arrive at Puerto Villamil, Isabela.

To enter the Galapagos there is a tax to pay on the mainland departure point and another on arrival. Don’t lose the bits of paper. With every move into and between islands, luggage is checked to ensure we are not transporting any foreign material. Bags are secured with a plastic zip tie; then there will probably be a customs dog on arrival as well. Allow plenty of time for this procedure.

La Jungla hostal is right at the end of the main road, so handy for the flamingo experience. The first floor room looks straight out onto the beach and we sleep to the sound of surf.

Flamingos had to be first cab off the rank for me. A series of water holes, obviously the perfect environment, delivered the flamingos in spades. We counted 27 and went camera crazy.

Amazing birds and so totally picturesque.

You have no idea how loud the munching can be from scores of baby tortoises feasting on tuberous leafy material at the tortoise breeding centre. Then it is a bit like the Dodgem cars in slow motion as the giant adults cross paths and their carapaces crash resoundingly against each other. Already we realise we should have been here for a couple more days. We opt for the Tintoreras trip.

Just a short cruise out from the port but before we even leave, there are rays, Golden Ray, Spotted Eagle Rays and they are everywhere.

It’s a little early for penguins apparently, but we are lucky and see some. Amazing so close to the equator. They are small, just a bit bigger than the fairy penguins we see in Australia.

Blue footed boobies is definitely a winning sight.

A hike across the lava past yet more marine iguana to the channel where the white tipped reef sharks come to rest. The white tips match the white tipped lava (from bird droppings) and that is how Tintoreras got its name.

We get good views of many sharks cruising up and down in the narrow channel.

The snorkelling highlight is definitely the massive marine turtle feeding on sea grasses right below. Brilliant.

The excursion to the Wall of Tears can take 4 to 5 hours on foot depending on how long you linger at the various beaches or scenic spots along the way. We still decide to do it that way rather than bicycle. Amazingly some people seem to be doing it without water, or hats. It is hot, I have sunburn blisters down one shin when I get back. We get the tip to be at the beach spots at low tide to wander in the rockpools. A totally fearless amazing looking bird suddenly appeared beside us in the mangroves. A Night Heron. Another lucky sighting I think as they hide during the day, out and about at night. Extraordinary.

A little burst of merengue is called for as we cross the Merengue bridge. None of that larking about on the return journey, just a stop to enjoy the sea breeze.

A giant land tortoise appears as if on cue as we reach the Camino de Las Tortugas. Nice to see them in the wild.

20161204_094433 — Land tortoise on Camino de Las Tortugas

The Wall of Tears is sobering when we finally reach it. Appears totally purposeless except as a cruel punishment.

We wake to blustery wind, rain and lots of cloud. Great day for flying! Amazingly though it changes within a couple of hours to one of our most stunning days yet. Hopefully the flight to San Cristobal on our little Emetebe plane will be magical and worth the big bucks it cost.

It truly is a day of rest on Isabela on Sunday. Only the tour companies and a few cafes open. We have had nice breakfasts at La Jungla, egg, juice, coffee and in my case humita in lieu of toast. Yum. Thanks to Sandra for the gluten free option.

We had 3 tips on arrival for restaurants, Cesar, Isabela Grill and Faro. All good and they went up the scale in that order. Last night was local pork with tasty stir fried veggies, chips with the skin still on the spud and the most delicious fresh passionfruit juice. How many passionfruit must that take and where are the seeds? Have had lots of tuna or albacore, chicken, pork, salads and nice light rice along the way. Also enjoying the quinoa meals.

A 10 seater Emetebe plane sits on the tarmac when we arrive to an absolutely deserted airport. Eventually the Customs baggage check man arrives and we move from one deserted giant room to a smaller deserted waiting room.

20161205_123125 — Another Emetebe flight provides us with photos ops from every conceivable angle en route

All luggage is weighed when the Emetebe chica arrives and in spite of our incredibly thrifty packing with backpacks around the allowed 11kgs, our hand luggage spins us up to US$35 excess.

Very cruisy flight though, worth the cost, saving a night and 4 or 5 more hours in a two island launch transfer. The pilots were very laid back, giving us a reassuring thumbs up at the end of the runway before takeoff.

The day is sparkling and we get great views. A second Emetebe plane appears beside us to give their passengers and us great photo opportunities from every possible angle. Even the copilot takes a snap. He then takes a short nap and wakes to take a selfie of himself and the pilot.

Do try to sit behind the pilot or in the back row if you want photos. Get in early and ask the Emetebe person who weighs the bags.

With such a limited time on San Cristobal, we dump our gear at Casa de Laura and head on out to organise our activity for the next day. Two key goals, Kicker Rock and Punta Pitt. We choose the all day 360 trip that does both these and more on a circumnavigation of the island. US$140 and if you smile, they cut it back to US$130. It includes snorkelling gear, wet suits (no thanks), snacks of bananas, pan au chocolat, fruit, drinks and a very substantial lunch of marinara rice plus salad.

Timing is perfect for a sunset experience on Playa Mann. Sea Lions are there in abundance as are people, but it is pleasant and not overcrowded. It reminds me of Mindil Beach in Darwin where the beach sunsets are the thing. Swimmers enjoy the water, scattering as a sea lion comes close. San Cristobal is to sea lions what Isabela is to marine iguana – they are inescapable.

We observe an amazing sea lion interaction. A pup is suckling on the sand. A very large male appears, nuzzles the mum and off she goes with him to frolic in the shallows. Pup is distraught crying up and down the beach checking out everything in sight, including my leg looking for mum. Not too long, she returns and all is well again.

The sunset is fabulous.

Sunset viewing means we have missed the cocktail happy hour experience. Hard to miss really as it goes from 10am to 6pm! We hustle the next day to make it by 5.30 after the 360 tour and enjoy our best trip mojitos yet. Super strong.

A 7.30 start for our day out and 9 of us plus the guide and the captain head out on the launch. As we approach Kicker Rock a big pod of possibly Bottle Nosed Dolphins give us a fabulous acrobatic display.

20161206_112932 — Lucky to see dolphin acrobatics

Kicker Rock is massive when you get up close.

20161206_113129 — Kicker Rock is impressive

We don the snorkelling gear and jump in. The very first thing I see is two Hammerhead sharks. That’s a big Yow! for an Australian but I manage to keep breathing and not inhale water. We knew this was on the cards, but quite another thing to be floating right above them! We see a couple more Hammerheads but so many more of the Galapagos sharks. Looked like 100 or more to me but the guide says 40. Maybe just my eyes popping out of my head. Hundreds of fish though. We snorkelled for maybe an hour.

Cruise around Punta Pitt to observe the birds. I get my wish and see Red Footed Booby plus a fledgling in the nest. More Blue Footed and Nazca Booby as well.

20161206_090027 — Squint hard, we do see Red Footed Booby at Punta Pitt on the north of San Cristobal

The beach stops are fabulous. There is no coral here but some of those beaches rival our finest on the Great Barrier Reef and we have them to ourselves.

Two more snorkels and we head back with another dolphin exhibition on the way back to port. This time I think it was the Common Dolphin.

Time on our last day to visit the interpretation centre. Informative with an excellent historical perspective – definitely well worth visiting.

So wraps up a magical 10 days in the Galapagos. If I was starting again knowing what I know now, I would definitely allow more tIme. No regrets…

Three weeks into the thirteen that we have for this trip. Now for some more mainland Ecuador for a couple of weeks.

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