Tag: pebble beaches

Our breakfast waiter is from Turkmenistan so we brush up on some basic Russian. Nice to be able to say Good morning. More importantly, I want my coffe after I have finished eating. Serving tea or coffee immediately is the thing here so I learn the word for “Later” in Russian which is pretty much the lingua franca in this particular establishment, after Turkish.

Autumn leaves are falling where we have just been but here in Cirali the heat is still intense in the second half of September. We have well over two weeks now to take it easy exploring the Turquoise coast and parts of the Mediterranean.

It was hard to find too much detail on getting here from Pamukale but it all fell into place on the day. Our exceptionally helpful hotel guy in Pamukkale dropped us at the dolmus to get back into Denizli. The uphill walk would have been a killer with all our gear. From there, it was a regular bus to Antalya. Back through security at the Antalya bus station to find out how to get to Chirali. “Number 7, pay on the bus” we are told. This smaller bus operates like a local bus and heads south along the coast dropping us at the Cirali turnoff. The dolmus waiting at the junction is full once we get on so off we go on the winding narrow road down the mountain with everyone dropped off at our respective lodgings. A very civilised arrangement.

Cirali is a tiny place seemingly devoted entirely to tourists but in a pleasant, relaxed, non obnoxious atmosphere a la Bali perhaps in the 70’s. Not a high rise in sight and Pensions stretch for several kilometres along the beach with the biggest concentration of accommodation and restaurants at the Olympos end. We are about a km or so further on in a garden environment and with a quieter beach.

For three nights we glamp it in a tent. Being on a platform with a small balcony and air con makes it just that teeny bit more comfortable, though it is cool enough at night to not have the air con on.

The beach is just a few steps in front of us and the ocean is not only inviting, it is beautiful. Major downside for me are the pebbles. A strip of burning sand is negotiated first, uncomfortable but normal in my world. Much less comfortable is the stretch of annoying tiny burning pebbles followed by a stretch of larger burning pebbles before you reach the water. The drill is, make a beeline for water and then directly back, no relaxing beach strolls. Many people seem to find no problem however lying on their towels on the pebbles.

We are here to see the chimaera and the ruins of Olympos, each at opposite ends of Cirali. Apparently the number three thing to do according to the guy trying to sell us one was to go on a boat trip to explore the coast. I am sure it would be but we are looking forward to a week on a gulet coming up so will have a rest day instead.

It is an exceptionally hot walk to get to Olympos from Cirali though plenty of shade once there. A modest fee is payable to get onto the site. For those staying at Olympos rather than Cirali, a beach fee is payable with a much more substantial walk all the way through the ruins every day to get to and from the beach.

Much less excavation has gone on at Olympos than in Ephesus or Hierapolis but there were some interesting sections and I found the inscription on the sarcophagus of the sea Captain Eudemos to be quite moving.

After this exertion in the heat, we pay 10 Turkish Lira each to be driven to the Chimaera for the night experience. That is for the 3.5kms to the base of the mountain and back again after 2 hours to explore. From the dropoff point it is an arduous 20 minute plus climb up the mountain to the place of the flames. Even though we are climbing at 7pm, it is still hot. But worth it in the end to see this spectacle.

It is a popular activity in spite of the climb and quite a crowd gathers to see the flames that spontaneously and mysteriously are blazing out of openings in the rock like some long forgotten barbecue site with an endless gas supply.

Note, going down the mountain in the dark is just as difficult with yet again incredibly deep steps and a basic track to follow.

For a very laid back beachy relax, good food and places of interest, Cirali has been a pleasant interlude.